Follow along my journey through Japan and Southeast Asia!
2/19/2026: Day 150
London, United Kingdom. I can’t believe I am writing this; my last post of this five month trip. Tomorrow I will board my very last flight- back to Boston. Surreal. I’m not sure how to describe how I feel today and I’m not sure I will be able to fully conceptualize my feelings until I have the consistency of “real” life to create contrast. Instead, I will continue with the theme of recounting my last few days’ adventures.
Sunday I celebrated my birthday in Antalya! My day started with no alarm followed by breakfast on the balcony, then a journey back into the old city to find a Turkish bath. I chose one in a historical building with good ratings, and as soon as I arrived I let the lady know it was my first time. She seemed pleased and showed me to the changing room. Traditionally, Turkish baths are separated by gender. This one even had separate entrances for men and women. Since the baths are often communal, this made me feel a lot more comfortable. I opted for the full spa treatment (it was my birthday, after all) and began with sweating on a hot slab of marble inside a 700 year old chamber adorned with mosaics. I could have laid in there for hours staring at the details. Then, I was ushered into the dry sauna followed by a quick sit in the steam room. Once my pores were sufficiently opened, the Turkish grandma scrubbed several layers of my skin off using an abrasive mitt. Then I was washed off like a prize farm animal, then told to lay back down on the marble and covered in piles of oily bubbles. My entire body was washed and massaged, then rinsed again. Squeaky clean, fresh as a baby. After enjoying some Turkish tea, I enjoyed a full body massage and was sent on my way. This is an experience I would definitely repeat.
When I arrived back at my hotel I was pleasantly surprised to find birthday balloons and the most delicious cake waiting for me! Thank you so much Akra Hotel for making my birthday extra special!
Monday I flew to London’s Gatwick Airport from Antalya. My first mission was to find fish & chips, which proved not very difficult. I chose a pub about a 30 minute walk from my hotel and set out. I have to say, I get the hype of a British pub. The place was a no frills, sticky counters, dim lit room with an array of seating. I ordered a local beer and found a corner seat- perfect for people watching (one of my favorite sports). After dinner my energy waned quickly and I turned in early.
Before I went to sleep that night, I decided to make Tuesday count and bought a first entry ticket for Westminster Abbey. I also booked a historic pub tour for the afternoon. I wanted to keep myself busy this week to avoid pointless walking as I had a short visit here. Westminster Abbey was of course absolutely stunning. I would say it exceeded my expectations in cultural and historical weight, as it contains the tombs of approximately 3,300 important people including Queen Mary I, Isaac Newton, Steven Hawking, Charles Dickens, and Geoffrey Chaucer among others. The architecture is unique, intentional, and undoubtedly holds more secrets than anyone can know. I took my time as I walked through the various rooms and admired tombs thousands of years old that have been viewed by millions. I did not expect Westminster Abbey to be much different from other significant basilicas and cathedrals I have seen before, but I was wrong. Every chapel, hallway, floor, and ceiling were one of a kind, interesting, and historically important.
After Westminster Abbey I explored the immediate area a bit, walking by Big Ben, the London Eye, Buckingham Palace, and Whitehall. I made my way to the old city of London- the original bounds of the city- to meet up with my pub tour group. I was early so I popped into a coffee shop nearby and waited. Through the window in the alley beyond I could see a small group of tourists beginning to gather, so I drained my coffee and stepped out into the brisk air to join them. Before I could open my mouth to inquire if this was my group, I heard “I think we’re wicked early” and I knew I had found my people. I responded with “which New England state are you from?” The blond haired woman laughed and introduced herself as Beth from Andover, Massachusetts. We are practically neighbors! The evening went on like a house on fire as my little group of New Englanders marched through the old city of London learning unique tidbits of history between pub stops. This was a brilliant tour, keeping everyone engaged and excited through the entire evening. We even got to tour the cellar of one pub that is said to be haunted, with rooms speculated to be used as cells hundreds of years ago. What a great way to spend an afternoon!
Yesterday I visited the iconic King’s Cross station, specifically the Harry Potter store and Platform 9 3/4. Anyone who knows me can attest to my deep love for the Harry Potter series, so this was a memorable stop for me! It didn’t take long to be sick of crowds, so I decided to head back toward the old city of London to find some more historic pubs. The first one I came to had multiple levels and chambers, each with unique seating, cozy nooks and fireplaces. I ordered the crispy squid and a Samuel Smith’s lager and soaked in the dimly lit warmth. Once I was throughly thawed, I ventured back out to find an actual meal. I landed at Ye Old Bell Tavern, just a few hundred feet down Fleet Street. A chicken sandwich and a Guinness later, I was sat next to the gorgeous stained glass window at the front of the tavern next to a foursome of older British gentleman. They laughed and bantered, and as soon as they saw me sit, one of them spotted my camera. He became very interested so I handed it over for him to inspect. He spent a few minutes clicking buttons and looking at settings and handed it back with a seal of approval. His white haired friend across the table joked that he was a former Royal photographer and knew the Royal family personally. I may never know the validity of this man’s story, and only today did I notice my camera came back with a few extra surprises.
*These photos are minimally edited to adjust lighting and capture this man’s expression. After all, this is technically not my work! I truly enjoyed finding the photos on my memory card after having this friendly interaction with the four friends.
Today was my final day. Final day in London, and final day of my five month long journey around the Earth. Today I rode the train for an hour and twenty minutes to visit Windsor Castle. My entry time was 10:00 am and I arrived about an hour early, so I walked leisurely around the quaint town of Windsor with a coffee until it was time to join the que for entry to the castle. As you can imagine, the castle was magnificent. The exterior perfectly manicured and spotless, guards orderly in their stations, winter blooms in neat rows alongside the stone footpath. The inside- opulent. Each chamber and hallway more ornate than the next, with massive oil paintings of monarchs and Earls and knights and dukes and viscounts. Tapestries the size of swimming pools and fifty foot high ceilings painted in a style reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel. Collections of jewels and suits of armor and cultural ceremonial pieces from around the world. I even saw the late Queen Elizabeth II’s resting place inside the King George VI Memorial Chapel.
Walking through the castle really puts into perspective just how far the branches of the Royal family reach and how deep the roots grow. Hundreds of years of history culminates in Windsor Castle. I’m very happy I chose this as a stop on my short stay in London. (No photography is allowed inside the castle, so you’ll have to see for yourself! Here are some photos of the outside instead)
This journey has concluded. Tomorrow I begin the next one- back to my fiancé and my friends and all the people I love and who love me. Being on the move for 5 months has taught me priceless lessons about myself. About my ability to problem solve, trusting my gut when something doesn’t feel quite right (and taking action), listening to my body and giving it rest when needed and most of all, learning to say yes to more things. Opportunities don’t happen when you shut them out. Say yes, even if you aren’t sure you’ll like it. Sometimes a situation you spontaneously said yes to turns into the most memorable experience of your life. I was terrified to leave the comforts of home, but my curiosity and excitement led me to this very moment. The moment of “Holy shit. I did this.” I didn’t let fear or discomfort hold me back from completing this massive undertaking. I hope I can inspire anyone who has been reading my journal to say yes. Say yes to yourself, because you only get this one life. Today, I am overwhelmed. Today, I am content. Today, I am sad.
But today, I am proud.
-Kelsey
2/13/2026: Day 144
Antalya, Turkey. After a week in Goreme, I took a very late 1 hour flight to the posh city of Antalya. I spent five days in a basic hotel located at the edge of the old city, a colorful district full of shops, bars restaurants, mosques, and cats. Lots and lots of cats. Antalya is a gem of a city for a lot of reasons. There is great shopping, amazing food, breathtaking views of the Mediterranean, and ancient ruins everywhere you look. The area is an absolute gold mine for history buffs, boasting some of the world’s oldest city ruins and artifacts.
I visited the ancient Roman city of Perge, an important civilization founded in the early 1200s BC, but artifacts have been discovered dating as far back as 3000-4000 BC from this area making the city anywhere between 3,000-6,000 years old. Mind blowing! Perge is said to be the best preserved example of modern city planning of its time. Excavation began in 1946, uncovering several monumental structures and giving insight to what life might have looked like during Perge’s active times. The mathematician Apollonius lived here during the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC and is most notably famous for his work in early geometry, coining the terms “parabola,” “hyperbola,” and “ellipses.”
Walking around this ancient site was truly incredible. Every time I visit archaeological sites like this I try to imagine what life would have been like during its peak. Bustling streets and steaming baths, horses and carts clacking along the mosaics, and hawkers going about their daily business in the bazaar. Much of Perge remains left to excavate but is still impressively preserved. I took the tram for a scenic and local way to get here, costing just $1.88 for the round trip.
The next day I woke up to heavy rain. I still wanted a small adventure so I searched for museums in the area. I found the Antalya Necropolis Museum, a museum built directly over the excavation site of 865 graves and tombs. The artifacts inside the museum were discovered in the rock below and ranged from very large ornately carved sarcophagi, jewelry, pottery, urns, and human remains. It was a unique experience to walk through the rooms of preserved artifacts and learn about their age and uses, and then tour the ground below where they were discovered. I spent about an hour here taking in the cultural and ceremonial pieces that were so important in death.
Another morning of heavy rain and strong winds followed. However, my spirits were high as I was to move to a different hotel by the sea. It’s my birthday weekend so I decided to treat myself to a room with a view of the turquoise blue Mediterranean waters and a little more luxury. Here I go singing the praises of my Capital One Venture X card again, because my annual travel credit arrived just in time to help me pay for this five-star stay. Yesterday I checked into the Akra Antalya Hotel. I booked a room with a sea view and was given a room on the highest floor, and the kind receptionist checked me in early! So far this is the fanciest hotel I have ever stayed in. People here are living well above my tax bracket. I refuse to shell out the exorbitant prices for anything in the minibar. It’s the kind of place you see people in bath robes in the swanky lobby as they float around the hotel’s many amenities, appearing so comfortable with excessive luxury. A life I can only dream of but will pretend to embody this weekend!
Remember when I said there are loads of cats in this city? Well, cats make great photography subjects in my amateur opinion. I love how they are unapologetically themselves, no matter the situation. Aware but aloof. You are just another object in their world. I will leave you with some recent shots of Turkish furry felines doing whatever they want.
Only one hotel and two flights separate me from landing back on American soil. I can’t believe five months have passed already. Thank you to everyone who has followed this journal and enjoyed my writing. It means more than you know to feel supported, and it helps me know that I’m never really alone no matter where in the world I might be. I love you all.
-Kelsey
2/4/2026: Day 134
Goreme, Turkey. Okay, I’m 99% caught up to speed with photo editing! It wouldn’t be so difficult if the world wasn’t so grand, am I right??
Let’s start with my flight from Singapore to Istanbul. I booked a business class seat for this flight using Capital One miles. Ya’ll need to jump into the wonderful world of miles and points if you travel even a little! This flight on Turkish Airlines business class would have cost me nearly $2,000 if I paid cash. Instead, I used the miles I accrued with regular spending to book this flight for just 65,000 miles and $230 in taxes. That’s an incredible price for 12 hours in a seat that turns into a bed, unlimited food and beverage service, free in-flight wifi (the best I’ve ever used!) priority boarding, free extra bags, and so much more… Once you fly business class you will never want to go back to coach.
Turkish Airlines business class has a few different products depending on what aircraft your route uses. My seat was part of a 1-2-1 configuration, where every single seat gets two windows and lots of privacy. I was greeted with a welcome drink and the dinner service began shortly after reaching altitude. There were so many courses I lost track, and in true Turkish style the meal ended with anything I wanted off the sweets cart and tea or coffee. I can’t remember the last time I ate so much in one sitting.
Okay, so I love business class. I’m not 22 anymore (R.I.P. Lower back).
I landed in Istanbul in the early evening and took the metro to my hotel, arriving around 9pm. I was completely exhausted from the journey so I just called it a night. The weather in Istanbul was chilly, windy, and spitting rain for the entirety of my stay. I decided not to let that deter my plans, and set out for mission 1: buy a cheap umbrella. After locating an ATM to withdraw some Turkish Lira I found a lucky umbrella salesman and was on my way. I pointed myself toward the Basilica Cistern, my first point of interest. The cistern was built during the 6th century Byzantine era and is the largest of the hundreds of underground cisterns in Istanbul. The Basilica Cistern is recognized by UNESCO since the 1980s as part of the “Historic Areas of Istanbul.”
I found this place incredibly beautiful and a testament to the many feats of early structural architecture.
After the Cistern I made my way to the nearby Hagia Sofia, a large mosque with iconic domed structures and intricate yellow painted interiors. The mosque was originally built as the Cathedral of Constantinople in 360AD and served as such until the fall of Constantinople in 1453. It was once the largest indoor space, and an architectural marvel of its time. I really enjoyed this historical site, as I always enjoy entering ancient religious sites. Regardless of religious beliefs, there’s a sense of timeless clarity and stillness in places like these that never eludes me.
The next day I slept in, grabbed my camera and headed for the Blue Mosque. Another architectural gem built to rival Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque is an active religious site that still closes for prayer five times daily. The silver lining of trying to keep track of the opening schedule is that entry is free. The iconic structure was built in the Ottoman era between 1609-1617 and is one of Istanbul’s most popular attractions. 15 minutes prior to the opening time, there was already a long line to go inside. I decided to wait, considering the free entry and I had nowhere else to be. Once inside I was met with a spectacular display of mosaics and stained glass in various hues of blue. Unfortunately the massive crowd detracted from the serenity that Hagia Sofia had, but it was still very pretty to look at.
I only had 3 short nights in Istanbul and the I was off to Cappadocia- a region in central Turkey known for its otherworldly landscape forged by milennia of erosion from waterways and volcanic activity. The most popular town for backpackers to experience all Cappadocia has to offer is Goreme. I booked myself into a cave hotel for the ideal Cappadocia experience and off I went. I had a late flight again and arrived in the dark, eager to wake up and see where I had placed myself. And what I saw when I opened my hotel room door absolutely took my breath away. This place is unreal. The landscape is that of another planet. The views from my hotel are enough to make me forget about the brisk chill of winter. I spent two days exploring the small town of Goreme, popping into cafes and stopping for hot wine if I needed to warm up. I went for a small hike to a viewpoint overlooking the valley and fairy chimneys surrounding the village. Everywhere angle rewards you with spectacular views against the background of the thrum of quaint small town life.
Now, if you are a travel dreamer like myself, you know about Cappadocia. You have seen the dreamy photos of hot air balloons drifting over the fairy chimneys in every color, glowing with the first light of sunrise. I live for these types of “maybe someday” photos, because “maybe someday” is a choice. Today I went hot air ballooning over the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia, Turkey at sunrise. It was a dream. I don’t care if this is the single most popular tourist attraction here. It was the most magical thing I have ever experienced as a solo traveler. The balloon was so peaceful as it silently glided over the rocky landscape. The entire tour from start to finish was well organized, safe, and absolutely stunning. This day will live rent free in my head forever.
Okay, one more-
Today was a very good day. Turkey is an incredible destination and has something for everyone- the foodies, the history buffs, the luxury travelers, and the adventure seekers. I know I will be planning a trip back to this complex and magical country after I leave here. See you in the next blog post,
-Kelsey
2/1/2026: Day 132
Hello, world! A ton has happened since my last appearance here. I am now touring around in my 25th country- Turkey! Let’s back up, though. After leaving Laos, Rose and I made a quick 5 day stop in Siem Reap, Cambodia. We arrived via air and hired a tuk tuk to bring us to our hotel from the airport. This was our last stop traveling as a pair, and we wanted to save the most incredible sights for last- the ancient temple city of Angkor. Angkor Wat is the beating heart of the area. Its well preserved expansive grounds and many pagodas, chambers and hallways, gates, intricate carvings and statues are all surrounded by a massive moat. The sheer size of this temple complex is something to marvel at. You could spend days just visiting this one place. Our hotel was run by a very nice couple, of which the husband was our driver during the 3 days we spent exploring Angkor.
The first day, we decided to start with Angkor Wat at sunrise. We arrived in the pitch black early morning and guided ourselves toward the entrance via iPhone flashlights. A crowd already gathered before one of the ponds, hoping to capture the reflection of the ancient pagodas at first light. Unfortunately the day was overcast and we didn’t get much of a sunrise, but as the light grew and the temple slowly became visible, a profound feeling of ancient grandeur washed over us. Finally the gates were opened and we spent the next few hours exploring the grounds, marveling at the detailed carvings and labyrinth of passageways.
Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious site, covering over 400 acres. It was originally built in the early 12th century as a Hindu temple but was later converted to Buddhism. It is now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Over the next few days we were driven around in the tuk tuk to around 10 more incredible temple ruins. I lost track of what each one was called, but Rose and I came up with some clever nicknames to identify them: “temple of a thousand hallways,” “the red temple,” and “bat cave,” just to name a few. I love seeing old things created by hands hundreds or thousands of years ago. Angkor is a place that humbled me over and over again with each new location. The evident devotion to constructing places of prayer and spiritualism of this magnitude gives a well of insight about how these ancestors lived.
We were lucky to see a lot of wildlife in Cambodia! Rose had not yet seen monkeys and was delighted when we came across a group of three pig-tailed Macaques. In true Macaque fashion, they played me for a bait and switch and ended up stealing my dried mango right out of my tote!
We also saw Great Horn Bills, several types of geckos, lizards, birds, bats, insects and of course a lot of street dogs and cats.
After our time in Cambodia came to an end, Rose flew to Hanoi, Vietnam and I flew to Singapore to catch my long haul flight to Turkey. I stayed the night in the Singapore airport, which I will cover in the next blog post! (What a crazy 48 hours traveling to Turkey!) I booked a business class flight on Turkish Airlines to Istanbul and was treated to five star service and a lie-flat seat for my 12 hour flight westward. I can’t wait to tell you all about that, but I am so far behind after taking hundreds of photos in Cambodia.
I spent the last three nights in Istanbul, visiting the main attractions and some of the oldest ruins I have ever seen. Turkey is such a crazy clash of Western European vibes and Asian flair. Motorbikes still command the streets here, but they dodge and weave between Porsches and the street rail. Old and new, this place is an assault of the senses.
To be continued!
-Kelsey
1/19/2026: Day 118
Dinner last night was spent at one of the communal tables in the dining area laughing and talking with other travelers. A family of dogs who live on the property circulated the legs of hungry customers hoping to make a friend. I ate delicious spring rolls and Rose had a Lao noodle soup which she confirmed was one of the tastiest dishes of the trip. I know what to order tonight! When I retired to my cabin, I stared at the sky in awe. I sat under a blanket of stars, only broken by the shadows of the mountains across the river. This was truly a night I will never forget.
Today was a slow morning. Every day here in Nong Khiaw begins with a thick layer of fog shrouding everything. Mornings are cool, and somewhere around 10:30 the sun breaks through the mist. The rest of the day is clear and sunny until the mountains consume the light once again. Rose and I decided we had different plans for our day, so we took our cameras and walked into town together. I completed a short hike to visit a cave and she explored the town a little more. The hiking trail was narrow and steep, beginning in a banana grove before climbing 15 minutes to the cave entrance. The first cave I encountered was smaller but had a large opening. the inside was dark and had an interesting cathedral of stalagmites and a small hole with light peeking through from the forest above. The second cave opening was small, and I needed to crouch down to enter. Once inside, I was met with a very steep set of stairs connecting the opening with the floor below. The features of the cave were similar to the first, but with a large column in the center and a massive hole in the floor descending into darkness. I wonder what’s down there.
On my way back through town, I stopped for a mango smoothie and to rest my legs. I grabbed a few more shots around town that I found interesting and made my way back to the resort. Tomorrow Rose and I will begin the journey back to Luang Prabang bright and early. For now, I’m off to soak up every remaining second of this magical place!
-Kelsey
1/17/2026: Day 116
Nong Khiaw, Laos. Before I explain this magical place I have just checked into, I must recap what has been an incredible past 5 days. The journey to Laos began in Chiang Rai, Thailand. We were picked up by a car just after 6 AM and driven (very quickly) to the border with Laos. We watched the sun rise over the mountains as we zoomed closer to the next country with eager anticipation of the day’s events. From the car, we passed through a Thai passport control checkpoint, officially getting stamped out of the country. Then we were shuttled to the actual border crossing to do formalities with the powers that be, and hopped onto yet another shuttle which took us to the banks of the Mekong River.
Enter our home for the next two days: Nagi of the Mekong. A gorgeous riverboat with a very friendly crew and the most lovely passengers all settling in to take the slow way into the backpacker town of Luang Prabang, Laos. The Nagi offered fresh fruit, coffee, tea, snacks and drinks throughout the two day journey. I can’t imagine a more relaxing way to spend a travel day than slowly motoring down one of the world’s most famous and important rivers observing the locals on the shores panning for gold, tending their herds, or casting the day’s fishing implements. All around us were spectacular views of the mountains, creating the most ethereal backdrop as we chatted away with the other travelers from all over the world. The first day of the boat trip ended in the small village of Pak Beng, Laos. This is where I played a fun little trick on Rose. The following day was her birthday and we had each booked an $8 hostel dorm bed right next to the river since “it’s just a place to sleep.” Just as we were gathering our things to disembark into town, I told her that we would be staying at the elephant sanctuary in a beautiful private room with a balcony overlooking the Mekong. The view did not disappoint and we even saw an elephant at breakfast the next morning!
Over the two days on the Nagi, we stopped at two hill tribe villages and one cave temple. The villagers sell mostly handmade woven goods and a rice whiskey called “Lao Lao.” I was easily persuaded to purchase a gorgeous scarf from a local and later learned that the more intricate designed ones take 5 whole days to create! The dwellings in these riverside villages are humble. Small children looking after smaller children. A two-room building used as a school with no lights and only a few pieces of furniture inside. No running water. Minimal electricity or contact with the outside world. Unreachable via any method except the river. It was truly a privilege to witness first hand the way these people are living. It really puts into perspective the things we as westerners take for granted. Clean drinking water. Access to healthcare. Insulated homes that keep the inside dry and comfortable. Veterinary care. The privilege of gainful employment. Enough clothing and access to education. Hot meals. Means to keep food safe and preserved long term. Excessive convenience. All of these things I have witnessed Lao people going without most or all of, but they still seem happy. Children still play with each other and laugh and cry and fight just the same. Excess does not always coincide with happiness.
After (reluctantly) leaving the Nagi of the Mekong, Rose and I checked into our hotel in Luang Prabang. We spent the next 5 days sampling the local spas by trying the various massages offered. The town itself is fairly small but packed with a variety of cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops. There is a vibrant night market that shuts down the Main Street every single evening and a morning market selling spices, fruit, fish, and other food items. We climbed Phosy Hill to watch the sunset and I rented a motorcycle and visited a gorgeous waterfall. The roads in Laos are not well maintained so the bike rental lasted less than the 24hours I had originally signed up for. Rose and I took our sweet time going slow around town, talking to other travelers when we could and even meeting an ex-pat bar owner on the last night. We quickly fell in love with Luang Prabang and Laos as a country.
What happened next did not disappoint.
We booked a shuttle van to transfer to the next destination: Nong Khiaw, Laos. A small village nestled in the mountains about 4.5 hours north of Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw is quickly gaining popularity amongst backpackers as a base to start adventure tours like trekking, hiking, kayaking, and mountaintop camping. We came across a stunning cabin resort that offered riverside private A-frame rooms looking directly out over the river with dramatic mountain views as far as the eye can see. For only around $30 per night, this seemed too good to be true. We booked it, eagerly anticipating checking into this oasis property for 3 nights. The van ride from Luang Prabang was as expected- bumpy as hell and VERY dusty. The van had no air conditioner, so we spent the 4.5 hour ride opening and closing the window in an attempt to control the amount of dust entering our lungs. Did I mention the roads are extremely poorly maintained?
Along the way, however, we did get to see glimpses of daily life in small dirt villages along the river. People here rely on the river for everything from transportation, to food, to water, and growing crops. We passed lush green rice fields, herds of cattle, water buffalo, kids playing, and adults working tirelessly in the fields to ensure a healthy harvest. Before we knew it we had arrived in Nong Khiaw. We jumped on the back of a tuk tuk for a short 5 minute ride to our riverside resort. Immediately this place is heaven on earth. The views from every angle are eye-wateringly stunning. The cabin is tranquil, and there are sounds from nature coming from the mountains and the water. I settled in, showered off the dust layer, and stared at the stars through the screen of my cabin door. I know I say this a lot, but this place just hits my soul in a certain way. Grateful. Humble. Peaceful.
-Kelsey
1/15/2026: Day 114
It is currently 6:20 AM and I am in Luang Prabang, Laos. Over the past 10 days, Rose and I have traveled from Bangkok to Chiang Mai by plane, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai by bus, and Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang by slow boat via the Mekong River. We were welcomed in Chiang Mai with cooler temperatures and lower humidity, less traffic, and friendly locals. In Chiang Mai, our list of things to do included visiting an elephant sanctuary, temples, immersing in nature, and tasting the local cuisine. Northern Thai food is superior, in my opinion! Chiang Mai is an ancient walled city, with remnants of the old wall still standing along with sections that have been restored in modern brick. The layout of the old city walls is a square surrounded by a canal or moat, connected by several bridges. The hotel we chose was just outside the canal and old city walls, perfectly situated for quiet nights and easy access to the action.
Chiang Mai has a very laid back vibe. I likened it to “a beach vacation- without the beach.” It sort of smells of clean, ocean air, but with a hint of grilled meats always floating around. It sounds like happiness. It feels warm and slow. Island time. After dark, night markets pop up around the city and a different kind of vibrance fills the air. Bustle of tourists and locals alike all vying for the most delicious dishes Chiang Mai has on offer. There is something for everyone here, whether you want a swanky jazz club, an eclectic food scene, heart pounding Muay Thai fights, or a $5 foot massage. Watching the local Muay Thai matches from ringside was a highlight of our time in Chiang Mai!
The elephant sanctuary Rose and I chose to visit was called Big Boy Elephant Sanctuary. We did a lot of research about visiting elephants ethically and this was a great choice. What does “ethical” mean? We wanted a hands-off, organic experience that still allowed us to observe the elephants from up close. No riding, no feeding, no bathing, etc. The elephants that live in this sanctuary were purchased from owners as “property” and come from many different harsh situations including forced labor, circus performing, and riding in the city. We booked a half day tour using getyourguide.com which included transportation from our hotel, entrance to the sanctuary and a pad Thai cooking class. This was so much more than a visit to see some elephants. We learned about how they stay healthy, how old they are (Big Boy is 65 years old!) and what kind of conditions they came from. We prepared some food for them which was placed in a feeding box by a caretaker and left for the elephants to take on their own. No hand-to-trunk feeding. We were able to stand very close to the gentle giants while they ate and watched how they drink water from the nearby river. Then, we cooked pad Thai as a group and ate lunch while watching the elephants roam. This was exactly the experience we both wanted, and I would highly recommend visiting this place!
We rented a scooter for the following two days to facilitate a bit more freedom. On the scoot, we visited the sticky waterfall, a limestone cascade that can be scaled barefoot due to its grippy surface. This was a great experience and was absolutely free since it is inside a national park. The next day we ventured to the Queen Sirikit Botanic Gardens, about an hour outside the city. I was stunned at the variety of flora growing there in the many greenhouses and outdoor gardens. The ride to the gardens was phenomenal, passing sweeping mountain views and lush farm land. This ended up being an unexpected gem and a treat for us both.
An early bus departure brought us to the next stop- Chiang Rai. This small mountain town usually serves as a jump off point for people traveling by slow boat to Laos. We had less than 24 hours to spend here so we chose to visit one main attraction and call it a night before a 6am pickup to catch the slow boat. Rong Suea Ten Temple, or the Blue Temple was our outing for the day. The temple is quite touristy but for good reason. Its intricate architecture and facades of deep blue and gold create an otherworldly experience. It seemed impossible to take a bad photo here!
This journal post has been made over a few days as I catch up on photo editing and hunt down a sufficient wifi connection here in Luang Prabang. I have been trying to upload more photos to this post for the last 2 days and failing. So- I will wrap it up here and start a current post when I can!
-Kelsey
1/5/2026: Day 104
Triple digits! In beautifully unplanned symbolism, my 100th day fell on New Year’s Day. I spent the turn of the year on the rooftop of a swanky hotel next to the Chao Phraya River, watching as the skyline lit up with an array of fireworks displays almost 360 degrees around. I have been traveling with my friend (we will call her “Rose”) and we have seen a lot of new things since her arrival! We explored the streets of our neighborhood near Khaosan Road, a popular party district in Bangkok. We tried lots of new foods and Rose tried her first taste of Durian as a Southeast Asia rite of passage. (She had the same reaction I did- utter disgust and intolerance). On New Year’s Day, I had my first bridal appointment to try on wedding dresses in Bangkok. I ended up saying yes to the dress here in Thailand! I shipped my dress home and even after shipping, the price was a fraction of what I was expecting to spend in the states. This was such a full circle moment for me and an experience I will never forget. Wearing my beautiful wedding dress will bring back so many fond memories of this trip and make my wedding that much more special!
Rose and I took the river ferry to visit Wat Arun, the famous “temple of dawn” that looms over the Chao Phraya. Sadly I had taken my camera battery out to charge the night prior and forgot to replace it before this outing, but I did catch a few stunning photos from my phone and a shot of the tallest spire from the streets across the river. The temple itself has multiple spires which are gorgeous from afar, but absolutely mind-blowing from up close. The buildings are meticulously decorated with colorful Chinese porcelain and seashells in intricate mosaic patterns. We arrived close to opening time so the crowds were minimal, but quickly grew into a sea of tourists and photographers. If you go here, try to go early or around sunset!
During our time in Bangkok, we stumbled upon several other temples as well, including the famous reclining Buddha. This temple was the most crowded of the few we visited but witnessing the giant buddha statue up close was well worth it! There were a lot of other areas inside the temple complex to explore and take photos. If temples aren’t your thing, there’s still plenty to do in Bangkok! I tend to lean into the cultural and architectural wonders of any place I go. Temples make for great photos!
Today Rose and I are in the airport lounge (thank you, Capital One!) enjoying our free lunch and pre-flight bevvys before heading to the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai! We are SO excited for this next stop, as it is the gateway for so many experiences including elephant sanctuaries, national parks, more temples, and other cultural experiences. I have been in cities for a full 6 weeks now so I am more than ready to move on and see some nature! Bangkok is interesting. It is raw, colorful, kind, and delicious. You are assaulted with smells and things you’ve never seen before and new interactions. It’s like dropping straight into the hustle of Southeast Asia with no crash course and no briefing. I love it.
See you all in Chiang Mai!
-Kelsey
12/29/25: Day 97
Bangkok, Thailand.
I went dark on my last couple weeks in Vietnam for no particular reason. I tried to stay as present and involved as I could. I did manage to write an article detailing some information I learned about Japan and how it can help you plan your own trip. Read it here! I have been spending a lot of time with my camera, really trying to identify my personal style and what I like to shoot. I love street photography. There are multiple sub-genres of street photography as well- people as the subject, objects, spaces within the chaos. Ho Chi Minh was the perfect place to experiment with my craft and hone in on what I find interesting. The hum of the city never slows. There is always a willing subject or unique perspective.
So here I am in Bangkok. I have been here for two days now. Again, I have spent some time with my camera trying to discover the magic of the small slice of the city I have been able to walk around. So far I have found this place to be several things all balled into one; young and old, fast and slow, a feast for the senses and a haven for escape.
I am counting down the hours until my travel bestie lands in Bangkok to meet me for this next leg of the journey. Just a few more hours now and I will head to the airport to be reunited! We have plans to see what else this big city has to offer and then head north to have some cultural and nature experiences. (If I see a Gibbon I will cry). We will go to an ethical elephant sanctuary and hopefully spot a lot of different birds and wildlife along the way. I am so excited and relieved to be traveling with a friend again after 5 weeks alone. I do enjoy and value my alone time, but talking to random strangers for social fulfillment can only go so far. Deeper connection comes with time- that I do not have. This trip has been a welcome mix of time with people I love the most, time chatting with other travelers, and solo time. Time spent reflecting on my experiences or with a good book, neither of which I consider wasted.
It has been difficult for me to refrain from death marching all over the city to see the sights. I want to wait until my friend gets here so we can experience new things together! So far my two day impression of the tiny slice of Bangkok I have seen is that it’s vibrant, but with an ‘island time’ feel. It knows how to party. It knows how to relax. It knows how to take from you and reward you. It should be treated with the utmost care and respect. And so I will.
That’s all I have the capacity for tonight. I will check back in a day or two after I retrieve my friend from the airport! Here’s to the next chapter of my journey!
-Kelsey
12/14/2025: Day 82
I have been in Ho Chi Minh City for about three weeks now. My conquest of the city’s best cafes continues. Since my last post I have joined two group tours- one full day that took a small group to the Mekong Delta and another half day to the Cu Chi Tunnels. They were both fantastic and filled with information.
Mekong Delta Tour: full day, $29
The day started off with a 30 minute walk to the meeting point in District 1. I arrived at about 7:30am and the tour kicked off at 8am. Our tour guide was Ivy. On the drive to the delta, she gave us a lot of information about the area, daily Vietnamese life, and an overview of the day’s itinerary. Our first stop was a port on the Mekong River to board a larger ferry type wooden boat. We were shuttled across the bustling waterway to an island where we learned about locally made honey, tried honey tea and fresh fruit. We were treated to a few songs of live traditional music before moving on to the coconut village via a smaller motorboat.
Here, we learned about the value of the coconut tree and all of its different uses including building houses. We toured a coconut candy making facility and poked around the gift shop. Then, we took our small boat up a palm lined waterway to a large restaurant where we ate lunch, cooked some traditional Vietnamese pancakes, and had the option of riding bicycles or taking a short hammock rest. I chose hammock rest. From the restaurant we were taken on a very relaxing and tranquil long tail boat ride through the jungle. The light filtering down through the coconut palms as the boat silently slipped through the water was a moment I will never forget and definitely a highlight of this tour. I could have ridden on that boat for hours.
We left the restaurant and hopped on a tuktuk. The driver bobbed and weaved through the narrow streets and we somehow arrived back at the coconut candy shop where we boarded the large ferry boat back to the mainland. The last stop on the itinerary was a Buddhist temple close to the port. Ivy pointed out the three large statues and some notes about their significance to the temple and then we were cut loose to explore on our own. Now, I have always loved going into ancient places of worship while traveling even though I wouldn’t consider myself religious. I think it gives insight into the overall values of the people living in a certain area. Temples, shrines, churches, etc all provide some sort of haven for people in need and are always welcome to anyone. They are peaceful and quiet and provide a much needed sense of calm no matter what is happening outside their walls. This temple was no different. I really enjoyed photographing the architecture of this active temple. There were brightly colored flowers and lush greenery everywhere I turned. I was lucky to get permission to photograph a monk about to begin meditation, which resulted in a few of my favorite shots from Vietnam.
Overall, this tour was well worth the money. We were driven a total of 4 hours in the shuttle van, rode on 3 different types of boats, a tuktuk, fed lunch, tea, fruit, and coconuts. The guide was knowledgable and the entire tour ran exactly on schedule and was very well organized.
Chu Chi Tunnels tour: half day, $14
I opted for the afternoon start time for this tour. I was picked up in a tour bus at a nearby hotel this time. It was a larger group tour, about 24 people total. Our guide was Tony, who was- for lack of a better term- a history nerd. He was clearly passionate about all history, but war history was his specialty. Vietnam’s political and social past is tumultuous at best, with the era of peace only beginning in the early 1990s at the end of conflict with China. The first stop on the tour was a small traditional artisan shop specializing in lacquerware, a type of art where egg shells, mother of pearl, and paint are applied to different wooden items and then lacquered to adhere and create a shiny finish. This shop was special since it only employs Vietnamese victims of the terrible chemical Agent Orange, used by the US Military during the war to eradicate vegetation and eliminate hiding places for the Viet Cong. Agent Orange killed hundreds of thousands of people on contact and has lasting genetic effects, causing debilitating birth defects, still births, altered brain development and more. Its effects are still being seen in people born today- 3 generations after the war. Many of the artists working here cannot walk or care for themselves on their own. The shop gives them purpose, helps raise money for medical care for Agent Orange victims, and carries on local artisan heritage.
Then it was off to the Cu Chi Tunnels. The area is a maze of dirt paths and gated tunnel entrances, but during wartime would have appeared as nothing but dense jungle. There are still large bomb craters and trenches running throughout. A blown up US Army tank still sits in the place where it was felled. Tony pointed out the features of the tunnel system including the small trap door holes used by the Viet Cong to hide from ambush, barely larger than the laptop I’m currently typing on. Tunnels led to entire rooms dug meters beneath the ground. Entire armies living like earth worms. Rooms for eating, sleeping, and cooking. Tunnels dug to direct the cooking smoke into the riverbank, only cooking in the early morning when the fog from the river water camouflaged the smoke. Fake tunnels to throw off the tunnel rats. Traps disguised so well enemies would have 18″ nails stuck through their thighs before they could make a sound. The Vietnam war, or the American war, as the locals here call it, was both brutal and clever. Vietnamese people are extremely resilient and deserve to be celebrated as such.
The tour offered a chance to fire original US Army weapons ranging from M16 rifles to AK47 and even Bazookas. We were told that 82 million tons of US ammunition was left behind after the war. The firing range is an effort to eliminate the remaining live rounds and end gun use in Vietnam altogether. Currently, the Cu Chi Tunnel firing range is the only place where people can go to shoot real guns. I did not participate in this activity, as I was slightly skeptical about what my money would be used for. I heard speculation that it was funding the current Vietnamese military effort, but I also heard that it was used to aid Agent Orange victims. I am still unsure, but I opted out.
At the end of the tour, we were given the chance to crawl through 200m of the tunnels. Half of it had been enlarged to accommodate Western tourists and half was of original size. After that activity, the tour concluded with Cassava tasting and then we boarded the bus for a 2 hour ride back to Ho Chi Minh City.
I feel so grateful to be here. Vietnam is an incredibly optimistic culture and Ho Chi Minh is such a vibrant city. Every day I wander out I find something new that makes my jaw drop. Today’s adventure took me to two cafes, both of which are very much “Insta-famous.” I had seen these two cafes come across my social media feeds and decided to make my own opinion. I wanted to find a spot with a coffee to sit and write. First up was Ngam Cafe. I hailed a Grab scooter and off I went. The cafe is situated on a small alleyway a few miles outside of downtown. As we rolled up to the entrance I already knew this experience would be a nightmare. Girls taking photos of each other in the doorway wearing cutesie little dresses and sunglasses, posing with the Christmas decor. Boyfriend’s video taping girls in slow motion walking down the alleyway to the door of the cafe. I put my head down and walked past all the cameras, praying I didn’t end up on anybody’s Instagram. I entered and was met with a frantic hostess who quickly led me up the stairs and pointed toward the only vacant table in the entire place, a tiny corner table shoved next to a trio of teenagers making TikTok videos. I waded through the jumble of backpacks and ponytails and sat down. 15 minutes go by. 25 minutes go by. No one came with a menu or even acknowledged my existence. I get it. They were busy. But the sea of gen Z TikTok-ers and Instagram models was enough to make me grab my tote bag and head for the entrance. Perhaps another day. The vibes were cool though.
I left the cutesie Ngam Cafe and walked to my next social media inspired pick- Oasis Cafe. This place was even further outside the city so I really enjoyed window shopping and seeing a new area along the way. Not shockingly, I had a similar experience at Oasis. I walked in and was met with a gorgeous ethereal feel. Green tropical trees adorned with red and orange lanterns, a large Koi pond with recessed tables throughout, and a variety of whimsical seating options on the level above. I was told the Koi pond tables were full and shuffled upstairs to the self seating area. I would have been pond totally fine with that- had I received any kind of service afterward. I won’t rehash every detail, but it took me over an hour to get a smoothie that tasted like nothing. I’m a little bummed that I spent time and money here. The vibes were cool though. (Do you see the theme here?)
If you made it this far, thanks for sticking around today! This was a long one. I guess that’s what happens when I go a week without posting (cringe). Until next time, tam biet!
-Kelsey
12/7/2025: Day 75
I’m getting settled in and familiar in my little Saigon neighborhood. I’m finally on the tail end of a nasty chest cold that had its claws sunk into me for nearly the pas two weeks. The silver lining is, in Vietnam, pharmacies will do an on-the-spot quick assessment of your needs and sell you antibiotics with no prescription. Coughing fits, headaches, a passing fever, and lots of tissues later, I’m on the other side and ready to explore amongst the living. Being sick abroad is when I have felt the loneliest so far on this trip. First with my bout of food poisoning back in Tokyo and now a chest cold, the items and people I could normally rely on for comfort are nowhere in sight. The experience really does shed a light on how important keeping your body healthy is. I am so grateful for my immune system being as strong as it is and my body’s ability to (slowly) expel the nastiness.
Anyways, enough feeling sorry for myself. Now that I’m mostly healthy again, I have booked a tour of the Mekong Delta for tomorrow. I have explored a few different coffee shops and found a favorite one so far- Cong Ca Phe. It’s a very popular Vietnamese cafe chain known for its war-era aesthetics and consistently good coffee. The WiFi is fast and there’s plenty of cozy seating, not to mention spectacular people watching on the street below.
A few nights ago I decided to take my camera along as I ventured out in search of dinner. Ho Chi Minh City truly comes alive at night in many different ways. As the sun sets, the lights go up. There is a seemingly quiet walking street that turns into a vibrant nightlife scene. The central market buzz seems to heighten as locals take advantage of the cooler part of the day to do their shopping. Traffic never stops. Scooter horns played the background song of the city as I walked, dodging them along the sidewalks and positioning myself to get the best long exposures I could manage. I don’t have a ton of night photography experience with this camera quite yet, but I am seriously impressed with how it performs!
I took a long walk into the district across the Saigon river to see an art installation based on Van Gogh. The installation was inside a large brand new shopping mall. The area was quite strange. It seems to be a very up-and-coming area currently developing into a well organized urban area. Roads were blocked off and rerouted. There were well-groomed parks and clean walkways. Due its geographical separation from the rest of downtown Saigon, the district felt eerily empty. I checked out the art installation which I decided was underwhelming but did get some great photos. A quick Grab scooter ride brought me back over the river to the famous and very Instagrammable Tan Dinh church, or “pink church.” It was less crowded than I expected so I spent some time photographing the church and slowly walked back to my apartment.
Yesterday I found a corner of the city known as “Little Japan” and decided to wander over. I found small alleyways lined with cozy Izakayas, bars, spas, shops, and restaurants all serving up their respective style of Japanese inspired goods. It was interesting to say the least. From my month long experience exploring many areas of Japan, this small collection of streets gave the essence of the seedier alleyways in Tokyo but it didn’t quite hit the mark exactly. Maybe they aren’t going for a copycat Japanese experience. Perhaps it is meant to feel like a “Vietnamese-ized” Japanese town simply to give the small Japanese population living here somewhere to go when they are yearning for familiarity. Whatever it is, it was unique to Saigon and added yet another layer of culture and depth to the city. As I made my way through the mostly empty streets in the afternoon hours, I ran into a couple of guys carrying on in English and decided to insert myself into the conversation. (Pro-tip: if you are solo traveling in a country that doesn’t share your native language, DO THIS! I make a simple “Oh, English-speakers!” joke and introduce myself.) I met Gary from Nevada and another gentleman from Brazil whose name I forget. After Brazil excused himself to go get dinner, Gary and I decided to grab a beer and people watch at the craft brewery around the corner. I learned he sells real estate, has a brother and a sister, and is a certified advanced diver seeking to further his dive certifications in SEA. I decided I needed food and we settled up the bill and left the brewery, where we found Genvieve doing exactly what we were doing. I quickly invited her to join us for dinner and learned she is a police officer from the Netherlands. The three of us chatted for a few hours over bites in a wine bar in Little Japan and I made my way back to my apartment.
Solo travel is only as solo as you want it to be. After a week or so I find myself in need of social interaction and seek out these types of more spontaneous chats with other travelers. It was so wholesome to make meaningful connections with other people who have also jumped headfirst into this world of exploration.
Per my usual style, I leave you all with some street photography of this wonderful vibrant city.
-Kelsey
11/30/2025: Day 68
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. I have been here for just shy of one week now. This will be a longterm stay in one apartment, living in a more residential area on the outskirts of District 1. My first impression (after getting through the painfully long immigrations line) was that I am so grateful and happy to be back in Vietnam. I loved this country the first time, and I got the same feeling as soon as I left the airport here in Saigon. The people are cheerful, kind, and welcoming. Daily life is incredibly affordable, and the quality of living is high. How affordable, you ask? I just picked up a week’s worth of groceries for $28. My studio apartment has a living area, queen bed, workspace, bathroom with a bath tub, and a kitchen for $24/night. I ate the most delicious bowl of beef pho the other day for $5.
Other than the low cost of living here, there are hundreds of interesting things to do in Saigon. There is plenty of war history to learn about, including the War Remnants Museum, Independence Palace, and several statues and reminders placed around the city. The architecture here varies from that of French Colonial and modern skyscrapers alike. Unlike the northern city of Ha Noi, Saigon’s streets are wider and better planned due to being reconstructed after the war. Aside from war history, there is plenty of shopping, arts culture, food, and cozy cafes to discover. You can join riverboat tours or see the city on the back of a scooter tour.
I have been feeling pretty crummy for the past few days, so I have not had my camera out for its maiden Saigon voyage. All photos in this post will be from my few adventures so far, using my iPhone. I’ve done a fair amount of walking- after all I do believe this is the best way to see a city. I have window shopped at the Vincom Center, Ben Thanh Market, and several vintage shops. I spent a few hours slowly taking in the heaviness at the War Remnants Museum, which was a truly profound experience that left me in tears.
I don’t have much else to report since I’ve been holed up in my apartment. I have spent a lot of time trying to begin planning my wedding. It was Thanksgiving at home, and I ate pho. I finished my book and downloaded the next one in the series. Several cups of ginger tea have been consumed, as well as several YouTube videos on wedding planning and what to see in Saigon. Today I went out briefly to top off my groceries for the week and see how the pharmacy could help my situation. The very helpful pharmacist chatted with me and I was able to purchase some antibiotics and a natural anti-inflammatory spray for my throat. The adventure MUST continue! Ginger tea is calling my name… I leave you with some street photography from my iPhone. Stay healthy, gang!
11/24/2025: Day 62
I’m sitting in the Singapore Changi Airport with lots of time to kill. I found one of the four lounges (four?! What is life?!?!) I have access to due to the benefits of owning the Capital One Venture X card. One year ago I decided it was time to upgrade my wallet with a premium travel credit card- after all I would be using ALL of its benefits. Let’s be honest, who likes sitting in the gate area for hours waiting for a flight when you can get free food and drinks, a cozy chair, and not worry about lugging your bags around when you need to get up to use the restroom? Free fast Wifi, a comfy place to sit and write- sign me up. I have to sing the praises of this card from the highest rooftop. It has been nothing but reliable and SO easy to earn miles along the way. I have used miles to subsidize the cost of more expensive hotels, and I even paid for my 16 hour flight to Japan in business class with miles. (The best flight of my life! I am ruined now). Every time I book a hotel I use the Capital One travel portal and it earns me 10x miles on my booking. It really is a nice safety net to have a ton of free money to use if needed! If you are a frequent traveler or even just 1-2 trips a year, let me know! Right now Capital One is giving out 100,000 miles for new members. That’s $1,000 you can use for travel! (insane!) I can send you a referral code which would help me earn even more miles =)
Anyways, enough of that. No, I’m not sponsored by Capital One. I just really really love the card and it was the best travel decision I made to help my journey go further for less. The next leg of my adventure takes me back to Vietnam! This time I will be flying into the southernmost and largest city of Ho Chi Minh. I booked an apartment there for 5 weeks (yes, all 5 weeks will be in the same place!) to save some money. Vietnam is incredibly affordable and there’s so much to see. The apartment rings up at just over $24/night. Meals are usually $5 or less. Transportation via Grab is also extremely cheap, but I may also rent a scooter if I have a place to park it. I am very excited to be part of a neighborhood and get familiar with a place for longer than a few days.
Singapore. What a gem hidden in plain sight. I absolutely loved my two days exploring the city’s melting pot culture of history, food, art, and nature. “The Garden City” of Singapore is very walkable and has many unique districts to keep you entertained. In my two days, I visited Fort Canning and the war museum there, explored the Quays, walked along the sky bridge at Supertree grove, and learned about Singapore’s interwoven Chinese culture in Chinatown. I visited the Singapore Botanic Gardens and the Cloud Forest as well. Everywhere you look there is green growing alongside super modern buildings. Funky architecture rises high adjacent centuries old temples. The city is a stark contrast of new and old, urban and jungle, industrial and organic. A collaboration of cultural richness unlike anything I have ever experienced. Singaporeans are steadfast and resilient with an eye for the future.
Singapore is incredibly easy to navigate. The MRT train system is readily available wherever you are and SO easy to use. You don’t need any special cards or passes or tickets. You can simply use your Apple Pay function with whatever card you want to pay with. Tap in, tap out. My 1 hour train ride from the airport to my hotel cost about $2.50USD. While the MRT is very affordable, not much else here is. I knew this going in, so my first mission was to find a grocery store to stock up for a few days. My hotel room had a mini fridge and a kettle with free instant coffee (caffeine is caffeine when you’re traveling) and that was good enough. I picked up some instant noodles, yogurts, apples, and crackers. One lightly packed bag of groceries cost me a hefty $27USD (yikes). But I knew it would stretch over the time I had in Singapore. I did end up going to one restaurant, called My Awesome Cafe. In my opinion it was extremely overpriced but worth the experience! The cafe was eclectic and had fantastic food, so I would still recommend it if you’re willing to shell out. The portion size was generous, but I still paid $31USD for a Thai beef wrap and a Stella.
Don’t let steep food prices deter you from visiting Singapore. There are tons of free and cheap things to do and see here. I absolutely LOVED walking through the Botanic Gardens. The grounds are expansive and absolutely free, with the exception of the National Orchid Garden. I opted not to go in, simply because I have seen hundreds of orchids around Southeast Asia and I wanted to save the money for something else. It does come highly recommended, however! In the free part of the gardens I saw lots of exotic and unique flora and fauna including a few colorful tropical birds and an endangered snail! I absolutely loved this experience, and I would mark it as a highlight of my time in Singapore. The rainforest walk was my favorite- I went around twice! To have such an incredible and diverse green space in the middle of a huge modern city is just the icing on the cake. Singapore is deeply dedicated to coexisting with nature regardless of how developed the city becomes.
Chinatown was another highlight for me. I love entering districts of places that transport you to another place and time. The Singapore Chinatown is vibrant and cultural, bursting with art, color, flavor, and sound. It is truly a place to be experienced with all senses. I quietly walked around an ancient Chinese temple and took in its wooden structure and upturned eves against the clash of brightly shuttered British colonial architecture alongside high-rise glass-walled futuristic skyscrapers. A tangible walk through the eras of Singapore’s history right before my eyes.
Now for my favorite part of any place I visit- nature. For such an urban jungle, there is a shocking abundance of wildlife woven throughout. I challenge the “I’m not a city person” people to come here. In the Botanic Gardens I watched as plantain squirrels chased each other effortlessly through the tree tops, gliding from one branch to another. I saw Oriental Pied Hornbill collecting figs to feed their young. A rare critically endangered Brown Tree Snail perched on a leaf, only visible to those who were really looking. I observed a Clouded Monitor Lizard foraging for worms and insects in the height of the day’s heat. I spotted an elusive Greater Racket-tailed Drongo flitting between branches, singing the softest lullaby I have ever heard. The diversity of wildlife thriving in the middle of such a large city was amazing and inspiring.
Singapore is undoubtedly more than just a stopover. I feel like I saw a lot in my two days here but I also barely scratched the surface. Cultural roots grow deep. Future endeavors shine bright. If I am ever in this part of the world again, Singapore will be more than just an afterthought.
-Kelsey
11/23/2025: Day 61
Yesterday marked 60 days of travel! Two whole months out exploring the world. What a dream and a privilege this is! I am now in Singapore, but let’s back up to the end of my time in Bali. To solve the problem of getting around, I decided to rent a scooter and try my hand at Ubud traffic.
I rode my scooter an hour to a small village attraction that allegedly has a flying fox- the world’s largest bat species. There is also have a forest full of monkeys with a temple. I’ve seen and photographed hundreds of monkeys already, so I was really there for the bat. I paid 30,000 Rupiah to get in and then a “guide” took me around and showed me the monkeys. She was an old lady who used a cane to walk. She told me about her life and her children and grandchildren, about how she grew up 1 km from the park and how she had been living in the village her entire life. She told me the story of how her husband passed way 3 years ago. She walked all around with me and we shared stories about our lives. I was the only tourist in the park. My guide mentioned how it used to be so busy with tourists and now they can’t even open their shops because there are no customers. She said each guide has a number and gets a shop space. She offered to show me her wares, and I agreed even though I didn’t have enough cash to buy anything. She seemed adamant on finding me the perfect gift to take home (or just sell me something, I didn’t care.) Her story was so compelling that I gave her my hotel room key as a promise to return. I zoomed away on my scooter to find the nearest ATM, withdrew a few thousand Rupiah, and zoomed back to the temple. I purchased a dress that doesn’t even fit me for way too much money, but I didn’t care. Some things in life are worth more than money. This experience will always be in my heart. I never did get to see the bat.
The next day, I learned of a butterfly park only about 20 minutes from my villa and off I went. The park was larger than I expected and even had some exotic birds and a pair of otters outside the butterfly enclosure. (I’m very against animals in captivity and did not know the other animals would be there. I strongly disagree with zoos for viewing pleasure and that type of stuff.) Also outside the butterfly area was a beautifully maintained orchid garden filled with many different species of orchids and other types of flora. I entered the enormous netted butterfly area to find myself in a world like no other- a dreamland of butterflies floating around vivid flowers and trees in every color of the rainbow. My inner Nat-Geo photographer did a backflip and I got to work. I could have spent hours in there but the daily monsoon was looming. Here’s what I came up with:
Those of you who follow me on other platforms know already that I didn’t particularly connect with Bali. I won’t go on with the negatives but I will say I was happy to move on. My last few days in Bali commenced the beginning of the Galungan ceremonies, perhaps the most important biannual religious time in Bali. I took my scooter and my camera and set out to see what the locals had been meticulously preparing for. The penjor (giant intricately decorated bamboo poles) were all set in place. Ladies dressed in beautiful traditional garments carrying large woven baskets of offerings on their heads. Men also in traditional wear, riding scooters and carrying women sidesaddle on the back for longer temple journeys. The giving of offerings, temple ceremonies, and preparation for the entire thing is done by the whole community- children, adults, and elderly alike.
Ceremonies and rituals will continue over the ten day period following Galungan day, concluded by Kuningan day. I was even lucky enough to witness a ceremonial procession in a small village outside Ubud. A local directing traffic diverted me off the main street, so I decided to stop and see why. I watched with a big grin as the parade of men dressed in white, people in costumes, and traditional musicians slowly passed on their way to the local temple. What a treat!
Later that day I decided to take my camera for a walk further into the rice fields I had been staying in for the past two weeks. The expansive rice fields quickly turned into dense jungle and I reached a part of the trail that had been flooded. Impassible, I turned back toward my villa. For my last evening in Bali, I decided to patronize a local Warung (family-run restaurant) that I knew had an amazing sunset view. I sat by the rice field and watched the sun sink behind the coconut palms as the jungle came to life with nocturnal sounds. Large bats began their nightly hunt, and geckos flitted along every surface to collect insects drawn to the light bulbs. Herons poked their way through the muddy bottoms of the field, occasionally turning up a worm or small frog to eat. Fireflies start to blink all around.
I may not have fallen in love with Bali, but there is no denying Ubud’s rice fields hold a bit of magic. The staff at my villa made sure I was well looked after, helping me with anything I needed and answering questions when I had them. I even grew fond of my roommate, Stan the tail-less gecko. Even if he did like to chirp all hours of the night.
Singapore. I have launched myself fully back into urban life and I’m loving every second of it. Singapore is just a stopover for most, but after doing a little exploration I feel it deserves at least a few days. Due to its turbulent wartime history, this city-state is loaded with different cultural influences including Chinese, Japanese, British colonial, and Indian. I can’t wait to share it with you all in the next post!
-Kelsey
11/16/2025: Day 54
Today I started to get myself back into a solo routine. I woke up fairly early. I took my camera out for a nature walk until it was too hot to continue. I did laundry, read a book, and got a massage. It was overall a quiet day- welcome. Today was only the second day since I’ve been in Bali that it hasn’t rained. I took the opportunity to spend most of it outdoors. For my nature photography expedition this morning, decided to make my way to the Campuhan Ridge Walk. The trail cuts south to north through the center of Ubud, rising onto the a ridge and offering sweeping views of the jungle. There’s a rushing river on one side and fancy villas on the other. The start of the trail is marked by a beautiful Balinese Hindu temple.
I slowly walked up the hill, taking in my surroundings. Listening to all the noises that croaked, chirped, cawed, and rustled. Absorbing the smells of the mature trees, flowers, and incense burning from the day’s offerings around the temple. As the sun rose higher and higher in sync with the land, the tree cover lessened. I decided it wasn’t a good idea to keep going without hydration and turned around, snapping photos here and there of the beautiful jungle.
After I emerged from the jungle, I continued on with my quiet day. I enjoyed an oat milk latte, a smoothie bowl, and a view of scooters buzzing by on the street below. Laundry, massage, and back to the villa to relax and edit photos.
There is a major Balinese holiday celebration starting this Wednesday and the locals have all spent the past few weeks preparing. They create enormous cane shaped poles out of bamboo that are meticulously decorated and placed alongside the streets. The holiday celebrates the triumph of good over evil and lasts ten days. I am very excited that I get to be a part of it and share with you all! I will leave you with some more photos from my recent Bali excursions.
-Kelsey
11/15/2025: Day 53
Ubud, Bali. My two travel buddies and I moved locations further inland to Ubud. The heart of the rice terrace farming and jungle of the island of Bali. I haven’t had strong enough wifi connection to support updating my blog until now- I currently sit at an adorable cafe tucked along the side of a scooter path into the Kajeng Rice Fields, aptly named The Hideout Cafe. Over the past week, the three of us have spent our time exploring the area’s main attractions and some off the beaten path gems as well. We hired a private driver (very affordable in Bali!) who took us to the Sacred Monkey forest, a few temples, a waterfall, and the insta-famous rice terraces of Tegallalang. It was such a treat to have a local get us efficiently to each destination and learn from him along the way. His name was Wayan, which in Balinese culture is a name given to the first born of every traditional family.
The monkey forest was our first stop in Ubud. I think we all expected to fight with the tourist hoard, but that did not happen. We entered the forest when they first opened at 9am, and our walk through the expansive jungle was relaxed, exciting, and full of hundreds of entertaining Macaques. We also learned about the Balinese cremation ceremony. Families and people of importance are buried in shallow graves together after their bodies are washed in a spiritual ritual. After some time, they are removed from the graves and cremated together as a way of ensuring their spirits pass peacefully and with care. It was so intriguing to learn about this multifaceted journey to the afterlife.
The monkeys provided endless entertainment and photo opportunities. I could observe them all day long. Here is my favorite shot from the monkey forest:
The monkey forest is really a photographer’s dream! If you love photography, go first thing in the morning. The light filters down through the jungle canopy in such a beautiful way, it feels so ethereal!
After the forest, Wayan took us to Goa Gajah, known as the Elephant Cave to tourists. The temple was small, packed with locals selling souvenirs, and not exactly the cultural experience we were hoping for. The Elephant Cave itself is a depiction of an elephant carved into the side of a hill, its mouth gaping open. The cave entrance opens to a small room with a few prayer areas. Outside, there are statues and a buddhist temple area down a flight of stairs leading into the jungle. This part was pretty, but overall I feel it was overhyped. Sadly there was a lot of trash around, even inside the temple walls. The tens of hawkers following you around insistent on selling you identical trinkets really detracted from the spiritual calm of the place.
We went to lunch and called it a day. The afternoon rain rolled in, and we spent the better part of it lounging in the villa. The next day was similar- but this day Wayan brought us to a famous temple called Tirta Empul. This Balinese Hindu temple is well known for its spiritual purification ritual that can be performed even by tourists. There is a cold pool that is only entered after changing into a specific green sarong and orange sash and completing an offering and a prayer. The pool has fish swimming amongst legs. There are multiple fountains lining the opposite side of the pool, each indicated for a specific prayer. To complete the ritual, you must stand in front of each fountain in a specific order, say a prayer, was your face three times and then place your hands on the wall in front of you while cleansing your head under the fountain. This process is repeated up to 16 times to achieve spiritual purification. While I did not participate, I was honored to photograph my oldest friend completing the ritual.
Wayan took us to a surprise location after Tirta Empul- a waterfall in the jungle with a small bar and seating area. This was such a nice treat after a long couple days of sightseeing and walking. The waterfall was not busy at all. There were some hiking trails as well, but we decided to sit and enjoy the jungle and river views with a Bintang. It was a perfect day!
The last “must-see” item on our list was the Tagallalang rice fields. The location made famous by the ‘grammers. I take that with a grain of salt when deciding to visit very famous locations, as I prefer to make my own opinions based on my own experiences. We hopped in a Grab and headed 30 minutes north to the rice terraces. I have to say, it was definitely worth the price of entrance if you can get past all the touristy stuff. There are photo spots, swings, zip lines, a sky bicycle- you can even rent extravagant colorful long gowns to enhance your photo experience. We skipped all that and spent our time climbing up and down the terraces to ogle from every viewpoint. We only spent about an hour here due to the oppressive heat of the day, and decided to get back to our villa for some pool time.
Last night, my friends began their journey back across the world. We said our emotional goodbyes and I watched as they waved out the window and until I couldn’t see the black SUV anymore in the fading daylight. Once again I am alone. Solo on the other side of the world, but no better place to harbor healing and growth. I have one more week here in Ubud before I, too, move on.
To summarize my feelings of Bali so far, I would have to say it’s far different than I expected. I braced myself for crowds similar to Japan’s tourist attractions but did not find them. I have been pleasantly surprised at the richness of the culture here. It hasn’t been ultra-diluted by foreigners. If you pay attention, it is everywhere. Balinese people are inherently kind and peaceful. I am humbled to have this opportunity to watch rice farmers day in and day out endlessly caring for their crops, and in turn, their people. Rice in Asia is life. It is currency, and represents health, wealth, and prosperity for all. As I walk from the luxury of my villa that I am so privileged to stay at, each person I pass greets me with smiling faces and a kind “good morning!” Long term travel can start to feel stagnant and repetitive. Living in the rice fields of Ubud has given me a new perspective on real Balinese culture and how simplicity can create the most beautiful life.
I say this more often these days, but these days I feel it needs to be said as often as possible: we MUST lead our lives with kindness. Balinese people do just that. I have no real right to be here. I have no claim to the land I am sleeping on, and I’m sure at one time it was precious rice paddy. Even when I start to feel stagnant, I refuse to become ungrateful. Thank you, Bali.
-Kelsey
11/6/2025: Day 44
Uluwatu, Bali. Two of my friends traveled across the world to meet me in Indonesia! I am so blessed to have adventurous people in my life who want to share part of this journey with me. I met up with them just under two days ago at our villa overlooking the sweeping jungle and Indian Ocean. My initial impression of Bali is that it is a place thriving on tourism but it can’t quite keep up with demand. Getting through immigrations and customs was…. strange. I deplaned, entered the terminal, and paid for my visa on arrival within 20 minutes. There were tons of employees ready to accommodate visitors but no lines? The visa is available to pay ahead online, so most people opted for that option. Then I headed toward the immigrations area. The airport has about 50 passport scanners, but none were in use. It was so bizarre to see such modern technology not in use. Everyone had to wait in the immigrations line regardless of when or how their visa was acquired.
Once through immigrations, there was yet another online form to fill out for customs. I spent another 20 minutes filling out this form and received an emailed QR code for the officer to scan and allow me through the checkpoint. After that, I exited to the pickup area, where I was relentlessly harassed by taxi and Grab drivers offering me rides. Finally I was on my way to Uluwatu Jungle Villas, my first stay until my friends arrived the next day.
This place was just okay. It was a cheap and convenient stay near the hotel I would be meeting my friends the next day. The pool and common area was beautiful but the room itself needed some serious refreshing. After my night here, I checked into the Uluwatu Estate- a beautiful property with access to Uluwatu beach, a gorgeous well-kept pool area, and views of the Indian Ocean. My friends arrived in the afternoon and we were off. We had Lebanese food for dinner and watched some live music. Uluwatu town center seems to be the place people relax and let loose after a day of surfing. I’m not sure what else people do here. It was a vibe.
The next day we visited Uluwatu Temple. It is a sprawling complex situated on the southwestern cliffs of Uluwatu, overlooking the Indian Ocean. The grounds are patrolled by Long Tailed Macaques who are keen on adding to their shiny object collection. One even pilfered my friend’s earring straight from her ear, chewed it up and spat it out with a satisfied look on his face, all whilst clutching a prized pair of sunglasses from his previous victim in his toes. Convict monkeys aside, Uluwatu temple was worth the small admission price. The views are incredible. The small temple buildings and gates are unique and picturesque. There are plenty of places to get away from the crowds for a few minutes. I only needed to see it once, but it was a great introduction to this type of temple here in Southeast Asia.
Bali is, so far, laid back, relaxed, and carefree. No one is really ever in a rush or too concerned about the hustle (maybe except the Grab drivers). Island time at its finest. Tomorrow we relocate to the Ubud area, known for its nature- rice terraces, abundant diverse nature, and waterfalls. I will leave you with some photos taken from this incredible villa and I will check in from Ubud! Cheers,
-Kelsey
11/2/2025: Day 40
Welcome to Cao Bang, Vietnam! My fiancé and I flew to Hanoi and spent one night in the old city. We wandered the streets and tried as much traditional Vietnamese food as we could before boarding a shuttle bus for the 6 hour journey north to Cao Bang. It would be a tragedy not to touch on how much we loved Hanoi. The city is vibrant, bustling, and raw. It will separate the meek from the bold, and with haste. From the moment you step out of the cab, you are assaulted with the sounds and smells of scooter and car horns, bicycles, street food that has been cooking since the wee hours of the morning. It is a mecca of regional cuisine and culture. We enjoyed every second of our time in Hanoi and will be back for more.
But this trip to northern Vietnam was about leaving the city. We could not wait for what happened next.
Tourists typically know the popular Ha Giang Loop for motorcycle adventures, but we decided to avoid the crowds and try something a little bit off the beaten path. Cao Bang is a small city nestled only about 2 hours from the Chinese border. Its people are made up of a majority of local indigenous tribes, including the Mung people. They can be identified by the brightly colored clothing worn by the women and by the traditional crafts and art they sell in markets. Aside from the rich and varied native cultures, Cao Bang people are extremely resilient. The area endured horrible flooding in the beginning of October, destroying many buildings and roadways. People are still rebuilding, cleaning, and carrying on with daily life with smiles on their faces. It was truly impressive to see first hand the amount of work already accomplished in such a short period following the disaster.
The ride from Hanoi to Cao Bang was not for the faint hearted. The roads are narrow with endless switchbacks weaving through mountain passes. There are countless obstacles around every turn- landslides, herds of water buffalo, horses, dogs, or vehicles in the oncoming lane. Rules? What are rules? The laws of the road here only apply as far as common sense will take you. Our driver hurtled us through the mountains at an alarming pace and did not waste any time. Six hours later, we arrived in Cao Bang. We checked into our hotel room- the nicest we have ever stayed in- and went to sleep early. The next day we picked up our rental motorcycles. A pair of Honda XR150 dirt bikes, which were mostly well sorted and capable for the terrain.
The riding from Cao Bang was absolutely incredible. Somehow the scenery only got better and better. It was challenging to take it all in without causing an accident! We spent 3 days doing day trips on our little bikes, discovering small villages tucked into mountainsides, God’s Eye Mountain, and the Ban Gioc Waterfalls. We saw colorful plants, rice paddies, puppies, and scooters being used for carrying every item and animal imaginable. I even saw a scooter carrying a scooter!
Sometimes when I travel I have to stop and pinch myself to see if it’s real. A current-time “this is really my life!” moment. This leg of my journey seemed like a constant string of pinch-me moments. I am extremely lucky to have been able to combine my favorite things all in one place, and to add my fiancé being here with me is the icing on the rice cake. We explored the town in Cao Bang a bit yesterday as it was rainy and the roads can be a bit unpredictable in wet conditions. There was plenty to keep us busy as we tried a pizza shop, wandered through the stalls at the market, and I did a bit of travel planning for my next few weeks ahead.
Today we sat through another harrowing ride across mountain twisties and descended from the beautiful mountain scape of northern Vietnam that will be seared into my memory forever. This place is truly special and I feel extremely privileged to be afforded the opportunity to experience it. The people here are resilient, kind, and hard-working. What we would consider a national emergency, they are prepared to battle and overcome as if it were the common cold. My respect for this country and its people has no bounds. Cheers to you, Vietnam.
Next stop, Bali, Indonesia!
-Kelsey
10/26/2025: Day 34
SO much has happened since I have had time to blog last. I left Japan! Sad face. I was very sad to leave, but leaving Japan meant I was heading toward the end of my first long separation from my partner. I visited my last city, Osaka, for two nights. I was initially hesitant to stay in Osaka for any length of time as it was just another big crowded tourist attraction. You can imagine my shock when I actually fell in love with the place, and can’t wait to go back. There is an endless maze of alleys to wander down, street food to try, and areas to explore. I mainly wandered around the Donbori area which was close to Namba, where I was staying. Donbori is the most famous area of Osaka and probably the most densely packed with tourists. Along both sides of the canal, you will find street food stalls, performers, local people dressed in cosplay, cafes, and tons of crab and takoyaki shops. The streets surrounding the canal are lined with clothing shops of every kind, bars, night clubs, restaurants, multi-level game facilities, and high end fashion. It is sensory overload at its best. I was running on all cylinders as I bobbed and weaved through other tourists and locals like, taking in the sounds, sights, and smells of Osaka.
After my last two days in Japan, I boarded a cheap one way flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I took an hour long taxi to the apartment I had booked. The apartment building looked like it was in a pretty rough area of the city, so it had a full security team on site. I went inside to check in and the host was not there (during the time I had indicated upon booking). The situation only got weirder. I called the host through WhatsApp and he said “okay I will send my friend” in a panicked voice. The “friend” appears shortly after, asking for me to pay cash for the apartment. I questioned him, as my credit card information is secure through the website I used to hold the apartment and should have been charged accordingly. He called his “boss” and discussed the manner in another language but with an obviously panicky tone. He decides it’s okay to bring me into the apartment. The apartment is on the 18th floor, had an amazing view of the Petronas Towers, and multiple spectacular stains on the single bedsheet on inspection. No private pool or sauna as advertised. The bathroom smelled of stale cigarette smoke. Shortly after, I get a message on WhatsApp from the host saying “rest now, I will come by later with a credit card machine.” At this point there were so many red flags going up I decided to pull out my laptop and immediately book a trusted hotel nearby, called a Grab ride, and got myself the heck out of there.
This was my first valuable lesson on this trip that when your gut tells you something is off, it probably is. As a female solo traveler, my safety comes before any amount of money ever could. I am still trying to get my money back, but at least I don’t have to be harassed by a creepy scam artist any longer.
On a lighter note, things have gotten much better since that first night! My partner arrived on my second day here and it seemed like no time had passed at all. We spent the first day exploring Batu Caves and trying some local food. He seemed extra emotional and excited to be back in the same time zone, which I assumed was normal jitters after traveling for close to 36 hours and being dropped into the sensory invasion of Kuala Lumpur. I was so incredibly shocked when we returned back to the hotel after rushing through the pouring rain and he got down on one knee to propose! (I said YES!)
Here are some photos from the beautiful Batu Caves, a Hindu temple complex situated in the cliffside north of the city:
Next stop, Vietnam!
Cheers,
-Kelsey
10/19/2025: Day 26
What a whirlwind. I unplugged for two days in a GORGEOUS seaside villa in Sanuki. I explored the island of Miyajima and paid respects at the A-Bomb dome in Hiroshima. I bullet-train-ed back to Osaka, which is where I am writing this from now. I cannot believe this is the last stop on my month long journey through Japan. It feels like just yesterday that I landed in Tokyo, exhausted and overwhelmed but eager to get started. I have learned SO much about myself, Japanese culture, food, and a different way of life. Living alone on the road has posed challenges beyond belief (like getting food poisoning on day 4 on the other side of the world) but as I reflect on the past four weeks I feel nothing but gratitude. Humility. Peacefulness. Connection.
For anyone reading this who has ever dreamed about visiting this magical country, please don’t wait. Just go. I know it seems overwhelming and sometimes it will be! Do your research, or ask questions in the comments and I can help you. Japan seemed like a once in a lifetime location in the beginning, but as time went on it seems like I am destined to come back to the land of the rising sun. There is so much more to learn, see, and experience here.
Miyajima. Oh how I truly connected with you. The lapping of the waves on the breakwaters, the smell of the fishing piers and rustle of the friendly deer foraging for morning sustenance. The quiet solace before the ferries begin their daily pilgrimage. Since 2009 I have lived in tourist towns and have become quite accustomed to the contrast of the constant hum of the daytime hours and reprieve of the night once all the tourists have left. I stayed in a traditional Japanese style room just across from the ferry terminal. The host was lovely, making sure I had everything I needed to be comfortable for my stay. She didn’t speak much English but her kindness transcended languages and it was apparent she truly cares for her guests’ wellbeing. The island itself is home to a population of Silka Deer, many of which have learned how to steal food and brazenly sneak up on unsuspecting tourists. While they are cute, they are wild animals and should be treated as such. I visited Daishoin Temple, just a short walk from the water’s edge. The temple has a lot to see and countless nooks and pathways to discover. The different shrines offer perspectives into the daily life of practicing Buddhists and the complex offers a spectacular view of the ocean below. There is even a cave filled with glowing lanterns that felt just ethereal and rows of buddha statues wearing red knitted hats.
In Hiroshima, my main focus was the Atomic Bomb Dome. The location of the world’s first atomic bombing and a horrific reminder of the chaos that marred our history. This is the kind of thing you see and never forget. The kind of thing that evokes emotions you didn’t know were coming. Blindsided. I was truly left speechless as I circled the skeleton of a building, astonished that what remains is even still standing. It is a harrowing reminder of what must never be repeated. In a world where so many bad things happen every day, we must always choose kindness and compassion. We are all the same without borders.
Now I am in Osaka for my last two nights. Thank you all who have followed along for the first leg of my journey! Next stop: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I will leave you with some of my favorite shots from Miyajima and Hiroshima:
Bittersweet,
-Kelsey
10/14/2025: Day 22
Back by popular demand! My adventure in Japan! My apologies for being a bit quiet these last few days. I have felt for the first time since landing here like I am trying to find something to fall in love with in a particular place. Today I am still in Kyoto. I am wrapping up 5 days here, now at my second accommodation in the city. Kyoto is not like I had expected. When you hear about this city, “the cultural capital of Japan,” you expect wooden houses lining every street and Geisha walking around going about their daily life. After learning that there are only about 40 actual Geisha (known as Geiko) still working in all of Japan, it’s not surprising that I haven’t seen a single one. I have seen, however, a plethora of tourists dressed in traditional Kimono which they have rented from the hundreds of shops surrounding the Gion area. Sadly, I struggled to find any actual culture in Kyoto. Most of the city is very modern, built on a grid after being destroyed and expanded after war and conflict. Perhaps my bar is set so impossibly high after experiencing the small slices of rural Japan that any large crowded area is a complete turn off.
This is the first time in my life I have been truly put off by crowded tourist hotspots. I expected Kyoto to be busy, but what I didn’t expect from the hoards was complete lack of respect for the soil we were standing on, lack of awareness of other people in the area trying to appreciate what was laid before us as it was intended, and parents letting their kids treat religious sites like their personal playground. Sadly, this is the reality of overtourism in Japan currently. I visited the Golden Pavilion of Kinkaku-ji Temple and felt like a sheep being herded through a chute for sheering. By the time I reached the end of the walking path, I still felt I had not had time or space to really take in the temple’s beauty. At Fushimi Inari, I dodged crowds of people going to great lengths to take photos inside the torii gates. It was nearly impossible to walk for more than a few seconds without stopping to get around an Instagram influencer with a tripod.
Here’s the Instagram vs. Reality of Fushimi Inari:
I searched and searched in Kyoto for some “hidden gems” and while I don’t think there are many left, there is much to behold at the smaller temples of the city. I discovered a large active temple complex with a beautiful painted dragon on the ceiling inside the main building. Each building I visited there had nightingale floors surrounding the tatami prayer area. The grounds were meticulously maintained and contained different types of olive trees, rock gardens, and bonsai pine trees cut to grow perfectly straight. There was beauty to be found in Kyoto, if you looked for it in the right places. Last night I had a gorgeous sushi dinner at a small Izakaya restaurant just around the corner from my hostel. The sushi melted in my mouth and I got to choose my own cup for sake. I walked along the streets of a large shopping district, perusing the racks of countless vintage stores, each one playing their own version of American vintage music. Today on my last day in Kyoto, I visited another temple that enshrined 1,001 hand carved wooden statues of the goddess Kannon of mercy. If you look closely, each one of the statues is just slightly different in some minor feature. I could have stared at them for hours. I got my goshuin and continued onto the small exhibit on the back side of the statue hall. The exhibit features the archery competitions held at the complex over the past 250-ish years. There are still competitions held today in this unique style of traditional archery using long recurve bows and a very distinct style of aiming and firing the arrow. The whole process is like everything in Japan, deliberate, ritualistic, and beautiful- meant to transcend generations. This was perhaps my most memorable experience here.
Two nights ago I had the opportunity to attend the Yokai Festival. This festival celebrates “night of a thousand demons,” a fall celebration of Japanese folklore with food, costumes, music and dancing. The festival takes place at the Toei Kyoto Studio Park, a movie set of old Kyoto streets with a theme park built in. Just before dusk, people line the parade path and wait. At precisely 6pm, the music began and two men dressed as ninjas appeared, dancing, doing flips, and introducing the Yokai to follow. Then a stream of the creepiest costumes you have ever seen- really the stuff of nightmares. They bring kids to this? The Yokai danced and paraded their way through the street to the main stage. A short dance was performed, and then they exited as they had come, supernatural and scary as ever. I have to give huge credit to these performers. Some were roaming around the park before the parade began and they never broke character, never stopped acting. Not to mention with the heat and humidity they were definitely uncomfortable. The night was definitely worth the price of admission and I will never forget the dance of the demons. The millionth matcha soft serve never hurts, either!
Kyoto is a very strange place. I’m not sure I quite get the hype, other than there is a huge concentration of temples and shrines in a very small area which makes it easy for tourists to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. I think my two pieces of advice for finding real culture in Japan are as follows: 1- Slow down. If it takes longer to plan a trip that allows you more time, do that. You really need to get out of the cities to find authentic cultural experiences. 2- Don’t look to Instagram or any other major social media outlet to find “hidden gems.” They aren’t hidden if they are on social media. Chances are, you will find something great without even searching.
Tomorrow I am off to my next location- and you are all going to love this one. I am SO excited to share it! For now, sayonara and oyasumi!
-Kelsey
10/11/2025: Day 19
I have been moving around quickly since Kanazawa. Since then, I have been to Takayama, Matsumoto, and now I am in Kyoto. I knew from the beginning that this would not purely be a daily journal, hence the name. Today I walked 10 miles and climbed a total of 65 flights of stairs, mostly whilst visiting Fushimi Inari shrine. I rose at 5am to try and beat the crowds, arriving just before 7:00. The streets were already lined with a growing crowd, moving in a swarm toward the torii gates of Fushimi Inari. Traveling alone in this scenario truly has its benefit as I snaked through the hive of couples and families trying to stay together. I will elaborate on this visit another time. Now I need to rest my aching bones. Here are some photos from the last few days and locations. Enjoy!
-Kelsey
10/6/2025: Day 13
Two days ago I boarded another Shinkansen to my current location, Kanazawa City. Also known as “little Kyoto,” Kanazawa City is rich with history, boasting three Geisha districts, an original Samurai district, a castle complete with a moat and an adjacent sprawling garden, and several buildings of historical importance. The city was controlled by the region’s powerful Maeda clan during the Edo period, fostering Kanazawa’s wealth through arts and crafts unique to the area.
When I arrived at the station, I was surprised by how large the main station actually is. I walked about 35 minutes from the station to my hotel through the extreme humidity and was drenched in sweat. I had 3 hours until my room would be ready. The concierge checked me in, held my bags, and gave me an impossibly detailed rundown of the area’s historically significant attractions. I changed into something less sweaty and made my way to the nearby Samurai district of Nagamachi. The buildings are all made of wood and have few access points. Some larger homes are surrounded by tall walls and heavy gates- impenetrable construction for its time. I came across one of the more significant homes from the era, the second home of the wealthy Nomura family, the head of which a high ranking Samurai general. The house was not lived in, but used for entertaining guests, holding important meetings, or as a place of recluse. I toured the house and admired the simple cleanness of its design. Every room and surface has a purpose. The Japanese garden at the rear of the house with its Koi pond and lush green exotic varietals can be experienced from a large open space inside one of the rooms. This style of Japanese architecture really speaks to me, as it invites nature in and vice versa, urging human and nature to live as one. I have observed this in many instances- the Japanese way is to live amongst nature instead of destroying it for the purpose of human gain.
After touring the Nomura residence, I made my way back to the hotel to collect my bags and check into my room. After staying in a hostel for 3 nights, my new room felt like a mansion. The room is large and clean, has a king size bed and a view of the mountains in the distance. I decided to go down to the music bar in the hotel lobby for happy hour. The bar was fantastic, featuring a deejay playing his own curated selection of vinyl records on two state of the art turntables all night long. I was given two discount tickets for the bar on check in, a nice perk!
The next morning I woke up to the rain. I had planned on visiting the Omichi Market, Geisha districts, the castle, and the gardens. I put on my rain coat, grabbed an umbrella and headed out. I don’t mind the rain, so I had a great time testing my photography skills in the drizzle and ended up finding a few extra things along the way. Omichi market is a bustling covered fish market with stalls selling everything you can think of, from oysters, fruit, fish of every size and color, vegetables, beer, crafts, and more. I sampled my way through the market for a couple hours as the rain poured down outside. In my opinion, the best way to get to know a culture is through food- specifically the local market. So, as they say- do as the locals do. I ate oysters, A5 Wagyu beef, Japanese sweet potatoes, and a local craft beer for breakfast.
After the market, I made my way around a gorgeous shrine, through a Geisha district, and wandered through the castle courtyard down to Kenrouk-en Gardens. The gardens are known as one of the three most beautifully designed gardens in all of Japan. There is a small entry fee and I was on my way, umbrella in one hand and camera in the other. First I was impressed by the sheer size of the space. There are so many winding paths it would take hours to walk them all. There were many different sections, each unique and equally beautiful. I observed a plum grove with 200 different types of plum trees. A pond with a waterfall, turtles, and giant carp. A 400+ year old black pine tree being held up by wooden supports built by the garden caretakers, ensuring its survival. A densely forested area with multiple types of mushrooms growing undisturbed from the moss covered floor. A stone lantern shrouded by Japanese Maple dressed in fall colors. The garden is meant to be enjoyed while walking, and the design of the paths encourage no ending or beginning. Even in the rain, I will remember the experience of walking through this garden for the rest of my life.
Kanazawa City is certainly a special place. There have been several highlights of this area as I reflect on the past two days. Last night I experienced my very first Omakase sushi dinner. Omakase is a style of eating where you are served whatever is the chef’s menu for the day, in multiple courses. My hotel concierge helped me find a seat at a nearby Omakase restaurant with only ten seats- a rare treat. The outside of the restaurant had no apparent signage. I timidly opened the door and heard quiet voices. At first I was very intimidated walking into such an intimate feeling room, unsure I had made the right decision. Sometimes traveling feels like this- unsure and awkward. These small moments are the ones I remember and the ones that help me grow as a confident traveler. I took my seat and ordered a draft beer. I was hardly greeted by the chef, diligently working to serve the other 8 guests with nothing but his hands and a razor sharp knife. And so it began. Course after course, bite after bite of deliciously crafted sushi dishes- the day’s freshest and most special selections. There was no music playing and the space was simple but elegant. Nothing on the walls, no gimmicks. The chef had nothing to hide behind. The entire experience lasted about 90 minutes, and I consumed about 16 courses. I was almost the last one left as he began to feed his staff- two dedicated assistants serving drinks, preparing the hot dishes, and cleaning up after guests had gone.
Tomorrow I begin a 3 day stretch of one-night stays, each in a location of great historical significance. I can’t wait to experience it and share it with you all! Enjoy a few more photos from Kanazawa City- the city of the Samurai.
top of the world,
-Kelsey
10/3/2025: Day 10
Double digits! I have officially been in Japan for 1 week. Now I am in Nagano, home of the 1998 Winter Olympics! There are signs everywhere of the pride and legacy remaining from the city’s playing host. I am staying in my very first ever hostel for three nights here. My first impression is that hostels are not for someone who values personal space and quiet nights. Sleepless nights aside, the hostel itself is very clean, has a great community space, and the bed is the most comfortable one I have slept in yet. I feel safe and looked after as a solo female traveler, which was high on my priority list when deciding on a place to stay. Plus- at $25/night, you really can’t beat the price.
Nagano itself is the capital city of Nagano prefecture. It is nestled in the center of the mountains and is a great base for hikers and skiers in the winter months.
Yesterday, I went in search of the famed Snow Monkeys, the Japanese Macaques that have claimed a natural onsen in the mountains as their own. They can be found all over Instagram relaxing in the hot spring, steam coming off their little snow capped heads. I must admit, I was skeptical. I have heard they don’t always appear in the off-season (they are wild monkeys, this is not a zoo or a sanctuary), that they aren’t treated very respectfully by park staff, and that the place is so crowded it’s impossible to photograph them without invading their space. So, I arrived at the rural bus station to see for myself. Google Maps told me to walk 40 minutes after exiting the bus and what I found was an access path so steep my calves and thighs were burning. Thankfully, it leveled off and I was met with the most beautiful Japanese Yew lined path. Early morning sunlight filtered through the dense forest creating an ethereal feel.
The walk up the path to the Snow Monkey park is about 25 minutes and it looked like this the entire way. The walk alone was worth the bus trip for a nature nerd like myself. Finally I reached the gift shop entrance. I paid my 800 Yen entrance fee and hoped for the best. As I approached the hot spring, I noticed a small group of tourists all taking photographs of 3 monkeys seated on a rock wall. Success! I quickly made my way over the bridge and to the monkeys and started clicking away, anxious that this might be my only chance. Boy was I wrong. Eventually the trio climbed down off the rock wall and onto the ground, carelessly weaving through the sea of human legs to cross the span of distance toward the bridge. The two larger monkeys then chased the smaller, younger looking one off and began grooming each other, triumphant. From then on I watched and photographed as the pair of male monkeys groomed each other, foraged, sipped water from the hot spring, washed their food in the stream below, and sunned themselves on the rocks. Utterly aloof to the humans only 1 meter away. This was truly a dream day. Morning grew into afternoon and I realized I had been watching them for almost 3 hours. Small groups of people had come and gone, like the tide. I trekked back down the mountain, but not before stopping at a trailside cafe for the most delicious matcha latte. Witnessing wild monkeys in Japan was never on my bucket list, but I am so glad I decided to see for myself what all the hype was about. Here is what I might consider my single most favorite photo I have ever taken:
And some of my other favorites:
Signed,
Your newest Nat Geo photographer, (I wish)
-Kelsey
10/1/2025: Day 8
Yesterday I boarded a train for Nikko. This is a small town located in the Tochigi prefecture of Japan, to the Northeast of Tokyo. I had only one night reserved in Nikko, so I knew I needed to hit the ground running. The town itself doesn’t have a lot going on, but it serves as a base for great hikes, waterfalls, Lake Chuzenji, and local sightseeing. My hotel was simple, clean, and comfortable and only 5 minutes walk from the train station. I had a great view from the 4th floor of the town and the mountains beyond, cloaked in a hazy fog. Moody vibes for the day’s photography adventures. I deposited my bags in the hotel locker and set out. Instagram told me there was a picturesque red traditional looking bridge not too far away so that was where I started. The Main Street was fairly busy with tourists, construction workers, and locals going about their daily life. The heartbeat of the town seems to be Tobu-Nikko station, the local metro, local bus and tour bus station. I walked up the hill, opposite the station in search of my Instagram bridge. On the way, I found many small shops featuring Nikko specialties, such as Yuba, or tofu skin cooked and skimmed multiple times to create layers of salty sweet and savory. I sampled cheesecake ice cream with fresh grated local cheese on top, and a locally brewed wheat ale.
Finally I made it to the famous bridge. And let me tell you, it is worth the hype. I have never seen such a fairytale looking place in my life. It was so ethereal, in fact, that a couple got engaged on the bridge right in front of me!
After taking far too many photos of this piece of architecture, I set my sights on the Nikko Toshogu Shrine. Originally built in 1617, this shrine houses the remains of the most famous Samurai, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. This was one of Japan’s most peaceful periods. The complex consists of several structures, including a torii gate, an ornate carved main gate and the tomb itself and 207 stairs leading up through the forest. Most of the buildings and carvings are made of wood, others of silver, gold, and copper.
I spent about an hour at the shrine wandering around each building, admiring the attention to detail given to every angle and corner.
Then it was off to find something else that made me curious- Kanmangafuchi Abyss. Say that five times fast. I’m not sure how to describe this place other than to give you photos. To say it is a ‘river walk’ would not do it justice. The Abyss is a gorge, formed below a small man made hydro-dam. The turquoise blue rushing water is paired with lush, dense green and ancient tangled roots weave the walking path. Along the edge of the path are tens of stone statues of Jizo, a Bhodisattva, or individual who, in Buddhist culture delays reaching nirvana to look after the dead. The Jizo statues wear vibrant red caps and scarfs and sit facing the river. They are aged with moss, some in various states of disrepair. They are a beautiful reminder that whatever happens after this life, we must live in the present every single moment we have now.
I meandered back to my hotel around dusk, happy and exhausted. I had the best day.
-Kelsey
9/30/2025: Day 7
That’s a wrap on my time in Tokyo, and I have moved on to my next location- Nikko. Before I dive into my day in Nikko, let me recap. Two days ago I took a day trip to see Mount Fuji. I took local trains, doing it the cheap way. It cost me about $10 each way, half the price of the faster, direct JR line. I didn’t care, as I had all day. I arrived at the small station in the countryside and began my walk to Chiyoda Pagoda. The pagoda is a fairly well known photo spot to see Fuji so I already had in mind what the framing of my photo should look like and how to finish the edit. From the station there is a short walk along the streets to the pagoda and shrine entrance. Then, stairs. So. Many. Stairs. Nobody tells you these things when you see beautiful photos of a world renowned volcanic mountain, dressed in white and set in the backdrop of a culturally and historically significant structure. Finally, I reached the top of the stairs, thighs burning and chest heaving. Man, I should get back to the gym. Anyways, I stumbled my way to the majestic pagoda and turn around- clouds, as far as the eye can see. I waited and waited for them to pass, but this was as good as it got- still a spectacular sight and well worth the trip!
Behind the pagoda itself, the trail up the mountain kept winding. I decided to explore. Anyone who knows me can attest that I am no hiker. I will, however, claim to be one on foreign soil. So, hiking I went. I indulged my inner nature nerd, identifying plants and insects as I passed them, photographing every new thing that seemed interesting. I made my way back down the mountain when I decided I’d had enough. On the train back to Tokyo, I found a fun looking spot with plenty of counter seating to have dinner. I was in search of steak, specifically. Off the train, to the restaurant. I was sat next to a very nice Australian couple with whom I hit it off right away. We chatted for a while and I ended up going to a ramen restaurant to have dinner with them. The place itself was busy, smelled wonderful, and the food was packed with flavor. And food poisoning. I awoke in the middle of the night, body revolting against me. For the next 12 hours I fought tooth and nail to stay hydrated while letting the sickness run its course. Now, this is my first run-in with food poisoning. I had no idea exactly how miserable it truly is. The sweet staff at my hotel brought ice cubes and a giant carafe of water to my room and seemed very concerned. The next day (yesterday) I had booked the sunset time slot for Tokyo Skytree. When you book something this far in advance, you don’t miss it. So, against my better judgement I decided to limp my way to the Skytree. Up 350 meters in the elevator I went, trying to hold back the nausea with every step. I focused hard on my breathing and took breaks, keeping watch of where every bathroom was located. I took a whopping total of 5 photos and left the building, unsure of what would happen to me if I stayed longer.
Turns out, I was able to manage a couple decent shots even in my sickly state. I had actually paid for the higher deck as well but did not attempt that journey. I made my way back down the maze that lives inside this tower and tried to walk home- unsuccessfully. I wobbled and weaved and sat down every chance I got before climbing down the first set of subway stairs I could find. I rode 1 stop back to my hotel, climbed into bed, and passed out.
Today, I woke up feeling much better and thankfully so, as I needed to pack up and navigate to my next location where I am writing this from now. Today is a story for tomorrow. (stay tuned, it’s a good one!) Here are some more photos of Tokyo/Fuji area!
Back from the dead,
-Kelsey
9/26/2025: Day 3
Today was my first full day in Tokyo! Technically it is day 3, but I practically skipped over day 2. Being in the air for 15 hours is a trip! (Literally, LOL). I will begin by saying ANA business class has spoiled flying for me forever. The service, the food, the lie-flat seat, the amenity kit, must I go on? They hit every single mark perfectly. How will I ever fly economy again? But seriously, if you are thinking of going somewhere far away, I would highly suggest playing the points and miles credit card game and putting them to good use. But that’s a story for another blog post.
When I landed in Tokyo I had already filled out the entry forms online, so immigrations and customs was a breeze. I was on the other side in about 20 minutes and on a train… in the wrong direction. Welcome to Tokyo! The trains here are efficient, nearly always exactly on time, and so clean you could practically eat off the floor. (Don’t do that.) But with 32 million people living in Tokyo alone, there are enough trains to shuttle several armies from A to B and that gets confusing. I watched as my location on Google maps started getting further away from my destination instead of closer and realized my mistake. I exited at the next station and was able to find my way to the correct line. I arrived at my first stay- a Ryokan in the Asakusa area. For my safety I will not say which one until I have left this location, but I will say so far it is lovely! I have 5 nights here to adjust to the 13 hour time difference and see what I can see in the city.
Last night I dropped my bags in my room and ventured out to find out what all the ruckus is about 7/11 in Japan. I admit- it lived up to the hype. I picked up some snacks, snapped a few photos as I walked back to the Ryokan, and passed out for a few hours.
Today my objective was to buy a camera. I knew I wanted to do this in Tokyo because of the abundance of camera stores and lower prices. I took two trains (in the correct direction!) and wandered the narrow streets of Nakano until the store opened at 10am. I found exactly what I was looking for and was out of the store in 30 minutes. After this, I boarded the train in the opposite direction and decided to stop off at Harajuku to visit Meiji Jingu Shrine. The shrine is located inside a large wooded park, ancient and alive with the sounds of chirping insects and birds. The entry is a behemoth torii gate made of wood. A short stroll up a tree covered path leads to the first attraction, the consecrated sake barrels. I wandered a bit further and found the main shrine, a large cedar constructed complex immersed in nature. To pay respects, one must wash their hands and mouth with the fountain water in front of the main gate. Japanese architecture is absolute perfection. No detail is missed, and not one square inch of the shrine is in disrepair or unkept. The caretakers of this place of worship take great pride in maintaining the grounds and the shrine itself.
After visiting the shrine, I slowly made my way to the famed Shibuya Scramble Crossing. I remembered coming across an Instagram post about a viewpoint in the Magnet building, so I located it and started climbing stairs. On each level there are shops of every kind, from gothic style fashion, to a shop full of nothing but coin toy dispensing machines. Finally I came to a small bar with a paid viewing area (it comes with the drink! LOL again), paid 1,600 Yen and ordered the cheapest drink on the menu- a draft beer. I sat by the windowsill and watched as thousands of people waited and crossed, rinse, repeat. Shibuya Scramble is the world’s busiest crossing with around 2 million people zig-zagging over the intersection daily!
By this time I realized I hadn’t eaten anything yet. I made my way back to Asakusa, dropped off some things at the Ryokan, and set my camera up to start shooting. I wandered around Senso-ji some more and ended up with some decent shots! I popped into a small ramen shop, an Izakaya, then back to the Ryokan. I had my first soak in a Japanese onsen. I’m certain any ailment my body had is now cured. The Japanese have really figured out life!
With love from Tokyo,
-Kelsey
I will leave you with a couple of my favorite captures from today:
9/22/2025: Day 1
My last day in New England was spent traveling from my home to my bestie’s parents’ house in Maine. We met up with my twin sister and her fiancée for lunch. We sat for a couple of hours just enjoying each other’s company and chatting about our lives and what was to come. I said my goodbyes and then it was time to part ways with my sweet boyfriend for the last time. Bittersweet. Many tears. Happy and sad tears, but boy did they flow.
Day 1 of my grand adventure is here. It started with a 4:30 AM wake up and a short drive to the airport. Obstacle #1 of my trip has already occurred in the form of an email and a text from Cathay Pacific stating that my flight to Japan had been cancelled and they were to rebook me on the next available flight. No reason for the cancellation was given. Our flight to NYC arrived early, landing at JFK around 7:45 AM. While I was excited to experience New York City for the very first time, I modified my plan to take care of the more pressing issue at hand. We found our way to terminal 8, where the Cathay Pacific desk is located. The attendant said she could not help and that I would have to call the customer service line to get rebooked. So, the next task was to navigate the NYC subway system and find our hotel, drop our bags and get on the phone.
What I didn’t expect was that the area our hotel is in lies smack dab in the middle of the Hasidic Jewish community of Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The Hasidic Jews are an order of Jews practicing a form of the religion that dates back 250 years originating in Ukraine. They are easily identifiable, the men wearing all black clothing, long coats, and traditional looking hats. The women dress very modestly, always keeping knees and shoulders covered, and most often seen with several children bouncing around them. I had first learned about this community through watching Drew Binsky’s documentary on YouTube, in which he delves deep into the culture and learns more about daily life as a Hasidic Jew. Watch Here!
The flight debacle. After spending 45 minutes on the phone with a random travel agent who claimed to be a rebooking line for Cathay Pacific, I found out about Super Typhoon Ragasa which is headed straight for Hong Kong due Wednesday, the original date of my flight. Cathay Pacific is based in Hong Kong, so that was my layover. With the impending natural disaster at hand, I was rebooked for the next available Cathay flight on Sunday- 4 days after my original flight date. I was so upset that I would be missing the entirety of my stay in Tokyo but tried to keep a positive outlook and enjoy the day. This rebooking conversation took place inside a cute cafe in Brooklyn, about an hour’s walk from our hotel. We stopped at a local pub to ease the sting a bit and kill some time before we could check into the hotel. We made our way back and upon stepping foot inside the hotel, I received a phone call from Mr. Rebooking man. He tells me he found a direct flight from JFK on ANA in business class on the date of my original flight. It even gets into Tokyo earlier than my Cathay flight did. Miracles do happen! Crisis averted and all is well in the world! The emotional rollercoaster of the day continued to level out from there.
We decided to see what we could in the city. We walked across the Brooklyn Bridge, ate dim sum, and found a spectacular matcha ice cream spot in Chinatown. We sat outside a pub for happy hour and then headed back to Brooklyn. As the sun set and the lights started to sparkle, I had to remind myself that everything happens the way it’s supposed to and I am capable. Here’s to you, NYC.
-Kelsey
48 Hours to Go:
Yesterday was my last day at work. It was surreal to log out of my work programs and step away, not knowing when I will return. Today consists of squeezing every last second of quality time in with my boyfriend and deciding what to wear on my flights. We stopped by the local apple orchard and wandered through the farm stand sipping hot cider and snacking on fresh donuts. We finally took a stroll down a trail in our hometown that we had driven by a hundred times but never stopped. We talked for hours about everything and anything. I could talk to him every minute of the day and it would not be enough. I asked, “don’t you ever get sick of hanging out with me?” His response was an eye roll and then, “of course not, you crazy girl. I’m glad we got to do this together today.” Everyone asks me if I’m scared or nervous and I tell them yes for the obvious reasons, but the truth is, my life at home has never been more peaceful and happy. So I am scared, yes. But I am scared of leaving my life with him to explore the world, even if it is only temporary. What I will discover is unknown and terrifying and thrilling all in one package, but the bow on top is knowing I have the most beautiful life waiting for me when I return.
Tomorrow I will head to Maine and stay overnight with my travel bestie as we have an early Monday morning flight to NYC. My timeline of preparation has come to a close but I still don’t want to look too far ahead. Today is about staying present and really soaking in the beauty of the day- the New England crisp fall air, the changing of the leaves into fiery reds and somber yellows. But most of all, I am savoring the love and care I have received from everyone wishing me well on my journey. I am humbled, to say the very least.
3 Days to Go:
The Tetris game of packing everything I will need to live for 6 months into a 40l bag is complete. I would like to consider myself an efficient packer at this point in my travel career, however this was the most challenging pack yet. I will carry a 40l Osprey Fairview backpack along with its 15l counterpart as a day pack and to use for extra space. The Osprey packs are brilliantly designed and very good quality. So far, I would recommend- 10/10! The 15l clips into the front of the 40l, giving you options on how to carry the two bags. I was hoping to wear it this way, but after shuffling things around countless times, nearly giving up, and then realizing I had no choice- I am going with a front and back style of carry. I will wear the 15l on my front and the 40l on my back to distribute the weight a bit more favorably. I will do a packing post about my bags and what I’m taking for 6 months on the road. For now, I will say it is as minimal as I felt comfortable with. The key for packing light really is quality over quantity. I challenge you all to ditch the checked bag on your next trip and bring less!
-Kelsey
6 Days to Go:
Today is the first day of my last week of work. It feels like any other Monday- alarm, coffee, digging through the clean laundry basket. However, this morning I learned of a dear friend’s husband’s passing. Two years ago I made their wedding cake. Life can hit you in the feels at the most unexpected times, however “prepared” you might feel. Events like this really put into perspective how fragile life is, and how no matter what we do or where we go, the world around us carries on. My deepest condolences go out to my friend and both families. That’s all for today.
-Kelsey
7 Days to Go:
Unreal. In just one week I will start the first leg of my journey: New York City. Everyone is shocked when they hear I have never been to NYC! It’s just a 5 hour drive from where I live or a short 1 hour flight. My plan is to spend two days eating as much delicious food as possible and check out some of the most iconic buildings in the world. I will use the opportunity to warm up my new walking shoes and get a feel for a busy subway system before landing in Tokyo a few days after. Today on the spectrum of emotions I have been bouncing between, I feel excitement!
-Kelsey
10 Days to Go:
10 DAYS. Wow this feels unreal! As I inch closer to departure I try to stay focused. Writing lists, checking them off, writing new lists. Each time I deem myself “100% ready” I think of one more thing. Just one more thing- cancel that subscription, pick up this item at the drugstore. This process has taught me that with some things in life, I can never truly feel ready. A large part of this part is embracing the unknown and trusting myself to navigate whatever comes next. Solo travel is an invaluable path towards building true self-reliance. If anyone reads this journal, I encourage YOU to do something alone and really feel all the feels. Whether it’s simply going to dinner by yourself and striking up a conversation with the person at the bar next to you or taking a weekend solo trip to another city- just go. I promise, it’s worth it.
-Kelsey
11 Days to Go:
“What do you have left to do?” This has been the most common question I’ve fielded recently. The truth is, I am more concerned with “who do you have left to see?” or “how are you feeling?” The practice of being present in every moment with my boyfriend is how I will soak up every moment and really savor it. My best friend and fellow travel junkie suggested phone-free evenings, little walks after dinner, sitting by a fire and chatting about our day. So today we start with staying a few minutes extra after the alarm goes off, quiet coffee, and the soft understanding of how fragile and precious these moments really are.
-Kelsey
12 Days to Go:
This weekend I celebrated with some of my closest friends and family in the beautiful coastal city of Portland, Maine. Portland is an area I called home for around 15 years and will always hold a piece of my heart. Our group met up at a swanky hotel cafe and then set out in the drizzle to explore what the city had to offer. Of course, Portland never disappoints, but the real enjoyment came from spending time with loved ones. We ate, we drank, we laughed (and cried!). We found ourselves playing vintage arcade games by the end of the day, and as our party dispersed, my heart had been filled to the brim. My send-off was nothing short of perfect and it was a day I will carry with me on this adventure and beyond. The clarity and presence I have felt in these last few days has grounded me. I am so incredibly grateful and lucky to have these people, my health, and the opportunities ahead.
-Kelsey
15 Days to Go:
Today is Saturday. I work Saturdays, so today feels normal to me. I keep thinking about what “normal” is, and how the sense of normalcy will be flipped on its head so soon. 15 days from now I won’t have quiet mornings with my partner, fresh brewed coffee every morning, or a cozy nook to write in. Temporary. Everything on this Earth is temporary. The next two weeks are sure to pass at lightening speed and drag on all at the same time. Today I feel grateful for my life, health, and fortune to hover on the cusp of this life-changing experience.
-Kelsey
16 Days to Go:
This morning my sense of panic and “unreadiness” has transformed into something more comforting. Two years. Two whole years I have spent preparing myself for this trip financially, mentally, and physically. This feeling of preparedness I seem to have discovered today may not last; perhaps it is fleeting at best. In just over two weeks I will board a flight to a faraway land with nothing but a 40l backpack. The motivation behind this ambition stems from somewhere I can’t quite pin down. Self-discovery? Sure, maybe. Getting to say “I told you so” to many who doubted me? Perhaps. Proving to myself that I can follow through with a long-term goal is one of the driving factors for this trip.
Today I am in New Hampshire, United States. I am going to work. A normal Friday in the working world. How different my life will be in just 16 short days.
This page will serve as a “virtual journal” for those who would like to follow along. I look forward to posting updates as often as I can!
-Kelsey
Kelsey – I just wanted to see you off! Best of luck on your journey!! My friend Andre went to Japan last year and LOVED IT! It’s safe there, but sending you safe farewells anyway! NYC is a great start. Glenn (NEMRR) and I always stayed at the Roosevelt Hotel near Times Square. I think its haunted, and it has a badass lobby! Anyway, safe travels!! 🙂
Thank you so much Marcy for your kind words! It will be a once in a lifetime type of trip!
You’re an inspiration. Thanks for sharing your journey