exploring the laid back Isla Holbox, mexico
Isla Holbox at a Glance
Located in the Gulf of Mexico, Isla Holbox is a small sparsely populated island with no cars and laid back vibes. It is about 2.5 miles long and 1 mile wide and is home to vibrant wildlife, friendly locals, and some of the most stunning beaches I have ever seen. Holbox translated in the Mayan language means “black hole,” a name given to the remote paradise when its first settlers arrived following an attack by the Maya during the Caste War of the Yucatan. Today, the tiny island has about 1,200 inhabitants, most of whom make up the two most prominent industries of fishing and tourism. Isla Holbox (pronounced HOL-Bosh) is about 2.5-3 hours north of the busy Cancun International Airport by car, shuttle, or bus, plus a simple 20 minute ferry ride from the mainland to the island.
The island is only inhabited on one small area and the rest is protected area called the Yum Balam Reserve.
Why choose Isla Holbox?
When American travelers think of Mexico, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the all-inclusive resort they stayed at in or around Cancun. They probably never left the resort because they were told it was “dangerous” or that somehow leaving the comfort and familiarity of their Americanized version of Mexico would be a negative thing.
I’m here to tell you not to listen to the American media hype or your uncle’s cousin’s best friend’s sister’s grandmother who got sick from eating a taco once.
Mexico has endless discoveries to be found from ancient Mayan ruins like Chichén Itzá and Coba ruins to lush rainforest landscape, beautiful beaches, vibrant bustling cities and laid back islands. With it’s rich history, friendly locals, and delicious cuisine, Mexico has something to offer for beach bums and adventure seekers alike.
I chose Isla Holbox for my fourth trip to Mexico for a few different reasons. As I am in my mid 30s, I wanted a quiet location with beautiful scenery where I could unplug for a while. The island has no big chain resorts and is far enough off the beaten path to deter the spring break party crowd. Lastly, it is off the beaten path! One of my favorite things about traveling is the overland bits of it, taking in the sights and smells of the untamed jungles of the Yucatan.
Getting to Isla Holbox
Flights
The closest major airport is Cancun International Airport. Cancun International is among the top 10 busiest airports in the world, so allow yourself some extra time between landing and your ground transportation departure just in case! The airport is arranged into 3 terminals, each located in their own independent buildings. There is a free terminal shuttle that runs every 20 minutes. Alternatively, there is also one small airstrip on Holbox if you have the extra cash and are willing to get inside a small Cessna type aircraft.
Ground Transportation
Once you have arrived in Cancun, there are several options for the next leg of the journey. The Holbox ferries depart from Chiquila, about 2.5-3 hours drive from the airport. To travel to Chiquila, you can rent a car, hire a private shuttle, use the local ADO bus, colectivo, or taxi.
I used the ADO bus on the way there, as I have used it before and it’s safe, easy, and comfortable. The entire journey from the airport to Chiquila cost around $40 USD and included a one way ferry passage. This ticket can be purchased right outside the exit of terminal 3 at the red ADO kiosk or in the adjacent office. Riding the ADO bus will take a bit longer, since you will need to change buses at the Cancun Centro ADO station.
For the trip back to the airport, my travel companion and I booked a shared shuttle with Holbox Shuttle Transfers, about $40 USD per person. Both of these options had pickup/drop off within a 2 minute walk from the ferry terminal.
Ferry Passage
Catching a ferry in Chiquila is easy. There are two ferries to bring passengers to Isla Holbox with departures every 30 minutes. One is 9 Hermanos and the other is Holbox Express. There is no difference in price or service, but if you’re lucky you might see live music from a local busker!
Island Transportation
You made it to Isla Holbox! At this point, the last step is to find your hotel and check in. I would recommend downloading the offline map of the area from Google Maps before you begin this journey and have a bit of a mental picture of what area your hotel is located in. I chose to walk about 10 minutes from the ferry to my hotel, but there are several hotels that could be 30-60 minutes of walking. This is where ATV taxis come in! There are no cars on Isla Holbox with the exception of a few delivery vehicles. Taxis (always yellow and drivers are always wearing yellow) are side-by-side ATVS and are plentiful, but expensive. I would only recommend using the taxi if you are carrying your luggage when you first arrive and when you are leaving the island.
You can also rent a golf cart or ATV, bicycle, or scooter to get around!
Where to Stay
No Caribbean island guide would be complete without it’s own unique range of accommodations. Isla Holbox is no different, offering a wide variety of boutique hotels, boujee resorts with loungey beach clubs, and hidden Airbnbs scattered throughout.
I stayed at Tierra Mia Boutique Hotel. It is well located- only one block away from the beach. Additionally, it is convenient to many amazing restaurants, coffee shops, and shopping. It was clean, comfortable, and had a quiet pool area, where I found myself lounging with a book on several occasions. Breakfast is included each morning and the staff are willing to help with anything you might need.
Comparatively, mid-range budget options that looked stunning in person were Aldea Kuká, Blue Holbox, and La Puerta Azul Adults Only resort. Resorts with beach clubs will often offer a day use pass to sit in their lounger area and have a waiter serve you food and drinks for the ultimate luxury experience.
Overall, I think the location, price, and amenities of Tierra Mia were the best bang for my buck for what I was looking to get out of this trip.
Things to do on Isla Holbox
The first thing to know about traveling to Isla Holbox is that this island definitely runs on island time. Everyone loves to lounge, get a late morning coffee, and go for a walk on the beach. Most stores and restaurants take the afternoon siesta, closing from about 2pm-5pm, creating a markedly European feel.
Some of the most popular things to do on the island are:
Punta Mosquito
Punta Mosquito is a small beach at the edge of Yum Balam Reserve that is only accessible by walking through the shallow ocean water on connecting sand bars. The walk from the inhabited side of the island to Punta Mosquito takes about an hour each way. White sand beneath turquoise water stretches as far as the eye can see. On the walk, you can see wildlife like stingrays, jellyfish, fish, and several bird species including flamingos!
Walk a Shelter Dog
Holbox Animal Refuge allows tourists to take one of their current dogs for a walk as a way to increase adoptions and help them get exposure. I had the pleasure of walking Bimbo, a young pup who needs a forever home! This was honestly one of my favorite experiences on Holbox. If you love animals and want to give back, stop by and say hola!
Watch the Sunset
It is no secret that you will experience amazingly beautiful sunsets while on an island in the Caribbean. Holbox seems to have sunset watching down to a science. There is a certain magic of the evening as the sky changes from blue, to deep oranges and reds and ultimately sun sinks below the horizon. At dusk, families and friends gather along the ocean’s lapping edge to laugh, share a drink, and celebrate the beauty of the day.
Playa Punta Cocos is the place to be when the sun sets on Holbox.
Swim with Whale Sharks
Whale sharks are very slow moving, filter-feeding sharks and are the largest known extant fish species in the world. They migrate to find plankton, and show up yearly around Holbox from mid-May to September. In order to snorkel with these gentle giants, it is mandatory to be with a guide. Whale sharks are protected and conducting tours in a safe and sustainable way is vital to their survival. Tours can be expensive, but the experience will be one you’ll remember for life.
You can book a whale shark snorkel tour like this one from Viator.
Bioluminescence
You have seen the beautiful blue water of Holbox, but have you seen it glow in the dark? If the answer is no, you are in for a treat. Bioluminescence refers to the phenomenon when millions of microscopic phytoplankton appear to be glowing or glittering in the sand and shallow water when it is agitated. There are plenty of tours available to witness the bioluminescence, like this Bioluminescence Experience or you can do what I did: walk to the very tip of Playa Punta Cocos and wait for dark. When it is sufficiently dark enough, walk to the edge of the water, stir up some sand and watch it glitter! This was truly an underrated experience.
Kayak the Mangroves
Abundant nature on Holbox is one of its biggest draws for travelers. One of the best ways to experience the uninhabited parts of the island is by Kayak. You can take 3 hour sunrise tours through the mangroves, paddle during the day, at sunset, or even a night kayaking tour including bioluminescence. Check with your hotel to see if they offer tours or self-guided kayak rentals.
Slow Down!
Holbox is an incredible place to simply unplug, unwind, and relax. Grab a hammock, lounger, or beach club cabana and have yourself a relaxing day of sun and sand. Tourists on the island are all doing the same and are very respectful of others aiming to do the same. Meander through the small shops. Admire the brightly colored murals. Grab a gelato. Read a book. After a short time, you’ll even find yourself walking slower.
Where and What to Eat on Isla Holbox
Fresh seafood. Beautifully crafted cocktails. Gorgeous smoothies. Ripe, local fruit. Foodies, you are in luck here. The food on this island shocked me in all the best ways. I was extremely pleased to find high quality food in a variety of settings across the entire island. Here’s the scoop on the best food I ate while on Isla Holbox.
Piedrasanta Holbox serves contemporary Mexican fare in an upscale nature-filled atmosphere. This place would be great for a date night or low-key girls night out. I ordered the catch of the day which was beautifully cooked and flavorful.
Cariocas Beach Bar- this was the first meal I had after arriving. I would highly recommend getting a smoothie and the tacos here!
Pinshis Tacos– This is undoubtedly the most underrated taco shop on the island. Everything is cooked fresh to order and has incredible flavor. Do not miss out on these delicious tacos!
Soulbox by Mittoz is a Rooftop Bar serving up the freshest drinks and delicious food from the restaurant below. It features a pool, comfortable seating and Instagram-worthy views. Lounge here during the day or dance the night away!
Coffee
Mar y Café Holbox– coffee, smoothies, and light breakfast items.
Clandestino– Amazing coffee and fresh, healthy breakfast options such as açaí bowls.
Tachali– Cold and hot specialty coffees at a walkup window.
Helartesano– This place has amazing gelato and ranks at the top of a lengthy gelato shop list. You can’t go wrong with gelato on Holbox, in any case.
General Tips for Traveling to Isla Holbox
- Greet everyone with a smile and say “Hola!” Kindness is a universal language and will get you further than you expect.
- Always agree on a price with your taxi driver before getting into the vehicle. This applies to anywhere in Mexico.
- The internet connection is bad. Like, very bad. If your cell phone carrier isn’t working on the island, you can purchase an e-sim from Airalo.
- Give yourself ample time for travel between the airport and the Chiquila ferry. In the event flights are delayed or shuttles are late, you will have time to reschedule plans.
- Use the ATMs at the airport to withdraw pesos. Decline the conversion to get the best rate from your bank.
- Travel with one backpack only. The dirt roads are often flooded and have a lot of standing water. It will be much easier to carry your things instead of rolling a bag on the ground. For tips on packing, check out my post How to Pack for 5 Days on and Island.
Gem of the Yucatan?
My thoughts? Overall, I loved visiting this colorful and welcoming paradise. Mexico will always have my heart and begs me to return. I crave waking to the sound of the Grackles, the crashing of the waves. The smell of the ocean and the warmth of the sun on my face. Isla Holbox is a beautiful gem. Travel can be grueling at times, however, this island is proof that the juice is worth the squeeze.
Nice write up! I’m adding it to my list!